In the front of mine I used a set of the "Ford Type" upper front shock mounts from Trail Tough.
They are not only Ford Type..they are actual Ford parts with the Ford parts sticker still on them. Wildweasel welded them on for me, though they can be bolted, too. We tipped them backwards, similar to Trail Tough's instructions and with that setup and the lower mounts welded onto the YJ spring pads (SPUA, remember) a set of 26.5" extended shocks limits flex by a large margin. You will most definitely need longer shocks if you choose that route, especially since you are already SPOA.
In the rear, I opted for a Sky Mfg. upper rear shock mount that I got from Roadless Gear.
This is a bar that goes side to side and bolts over the two existing rear shock mounts, giving you three choices of mounting the rear shocks. The outermost ones wouldn't work for me because they interfere with the exhuast and wouldn't allow for long enough shocks, either, though I understand from something Brent at Trailtough posted a couple weeks ago that you are better off using outer mounting positions if you are SPOA. The middle position was OK when i had 2" longer shocks but still had the potential of bumping the exhaust. I now have the same 26.5" shocks as the front, set into the mounts closest to the center of the truck. With the lower shock mounts relocated to the lower rear of the axle tube ala SPOA, and the 2.5 or 3" of total lift I have, these shocks are about 1.5 or 2" too long. There's not enough rod showing at the top. This may be less of an issue, however, since the shock travel is greatly reduced when they are mounted so far inboard on top. I am going to be adding in some add-a-leafs to give a little more lift and eventually replacing the shocks anyways, so this problem will get solved, too.
That upper shock mounting position also introduced a tendency for the shock to want to hit on the top of the differential upon compression, again because I am SPUA. Other people running YJs SPUA have reported the same effect. Cutting off the protective tube for the shock rod and getting the Ebrake cable off the top of the axle housing seems ot have solved that part of the problem.
hope this helps.