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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2003, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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New Motor questions...

Okay, after many trials and tribulations I finally got my new motor up and running. I rebuilt the 1.3, added a Sumo II head, a Hawk Torquer camshaft, Pony carb, 2" exhaust, and it doesn't run any better than the old motor. How many miles should I put on this thing 'till I can consider it broke in? What weight oil should I run in it? It starts out around 60 PSI when cold, but drops to about 20 PSI when idling warmed up. Is this normal? Anyway, I'm just glad it's running.
Joe Smiga
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 12:00 AM
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Re: New Motor questions...

It should only take a hundred or so miles before it gets full compression . On a new or rebuilt engine , never run it at any sustained speed for any length of time , best way to break them in is to run it up to about 40 mph and let it coast down against the trans , then back up , back down , ect . Modern rings really don't need to be seated all that much , but keeping the rpm's down below 4k for the first 500 miles is a good idea . Also, after the initial 500 , change the oil and do not use any synthetic for at least 3500 miles . Have you tried to check it's compression yet ? What muffler are you running , good back pressure ? BTW, that Pony carb is too small to really run correctly with that head/cam combo , in my opinion ....
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 12:03 AM
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Re: New Motor questions...

Another thought after re-reading your post . 10w30 oil is fine if it's warm in your location , or 5w30 if it's below 40* . Oil pressure should start at 60 cold , but keep at least 50 or so psi when the oil gets fully hot at highway rpm's , 20psi idling isn't bad , as long as it climbs with rpm's .....
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 08:17 AM
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Re: New Motor questions...

I'll agree with what Sarge said about the Pony carb. I ran a Pony carb on a 1.3 and it definately gave it a little more power over the stock carb. I put in a 1.6 8v and ran the pony for a couple weeks and was extremely dissapointed in the 1.6's power versus the old 1.3. When I got my Weber back it was like night and day difference. The Pony would let the engine pull hard in the lower rpms but would start to run out of steam when I would really get on it.

Like Sarge said that might be your biggest problem since you have all those mods to the engine.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Was: Re: New Motor questions... Now: Hey Sarge!!

Okay, so I guess the next question is "Sarge, how much for one of your Souped up Webers for my ride?" Setup for off road, with all the mods? I guess that's the next step. Thanks,
Joe Smiga
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2003, 11:04 PM
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Re: Was: Re: New Motor questions... Now: Hey Sarge!!

First off , I don't sell carbs . There is no markup, and I can't even compete with the bigger vendors so I don't even try . Once in a rare occasion I do have a used one for sale all set up , but it's really rare . I do rebuild and modify them , so if you find one like the Suzuki unit on Ebay right now , that would be a great candidate since it has all the necessary hardware to go with it . Otherwise, you could easily sink around $450 for a carb and all the mod work if you buy a new one ....
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:09 AM
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Re: Was: Re: New Motor questions... Now: Hey Sarge!!

Why no synthetic for the first 3500. My 2002 mazda kinda worries me cuz i bought it brand new but the had to drive it 350 miles to deliver it. Hind sight is always 20/20 i know, but looking back i should have made them trailer it or something. I run 5w-30 durablend valvoline. Its a semi-synthetic.

Anyways i was jus wondering why no synthetic for the first 3500.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2003, 12:50 AM
 
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Re: Was: Re: New Motor questions... Now: Hey Sarge!!

Synth oil is so good at reducing friction that it can interfere with the seating of the rings. get the rings
seated then it's OK.
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