Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Illinois wisconsin border
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Re: what\'s the low down on yota axles?
Ready to start writting toy axle faqsStock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide
Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 trucks/4runners
58" wide, '86-95 trucks/4runners
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks
Axle part weights
Inner long axle 41" 17.5#
Inner short akle 12.5#
3rd member 47#
stock tie rod 10#
BARE FRONT TOY HOUSING 50#
Brakes use the same threaded fittings, 10mm X 1.0. For the front, use Napa brake line #38688, approx 22-23" long with a female connector at each end, connect one to the Zuk hard line, one to the Toyota caliper (if you already have extended brake lines for your Suzuki, you don't need to buy new ones). For the rear the same line can be used to go between the hard line on the frame and the hard line on the axle.
Flat top knuckles. With the stock knuckles you can easily make or buy a steering setup that puts the tie rod and drag link above the springs. Note: If you want to use a hi-steer setup you will have to move your steering box forward. A standard crossover setup will allow you to keep your steering box in the stock location
Rear spring pads need to move in n1" on each side
Another problem is the drivers side spring perch is lower than the passenger side perch. Apparently Toyota uses a stiffer spring to compensate. To get the front end level I figure you'll need to weld a 3/4" spacer to the drivers side spring perch (I tried 3/8 and it's not enough). Almost forgot, to correct the front pinion angle I originally tried using caster shims, problem there was it raised the spring in relation to the steering arms causing an interference with the drag link and tie rod.
On the front brakes the calipers have a hard line that runs to a mount on the backing plate, then from there a soft line to the frame. If you get the chance, slot the mount on the backing plate so you can slide the hard line (attached to the caliper) out of the bracket when you do front end service. This way the caliper can be move aside or hung from the soft line.
On the front axle instead of outboarding your springs just drill a hole in the pad 3/8" outward for your center pins.
Steering can be done with either Hi-steer arms or standard x-over.. plenty of venders have what you would need just a matter of taste