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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-08-2000, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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OK I hear that the locker mae by power trax part # 1510 w/out side gears is a cinch to install. What's the deal? Do I have to set it all back up again?
Do I have to remove the ring and pinion at all?
I've done just about everything mechanicly myself, however I've never touched a rear end. What's the deal?

Bigbearzuk is offline  
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-08-2000, 05:17 PM
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NO, you do not have to remove the pinion, if you go with the lockright it comes with easy to follow instructions, my girlfriend installed my front and it has worked fine for almost a year now, I did the rear about a 18 months ago and no problems, just be sure the side gears are in good shape.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-08-2000, 09:29 PM
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I would like to borrow your girl friend just to convince my wife it is a good idea to check engine oil level. Forget trying to get here to do any wrenching.
No it wouldn't work.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-10-2000, 08:47 AM
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There's some stuff you can do to make the swap easier and things to watch out for too. Too much to sit here and type in though. The company you buy the lockers from should be able to offer you some good technical advice on what exactly needs to be done with the Samurai locker install. Its quite a bit different than Dana installs if you stumble into a company that doesn't deal with Samurais but still sells the locker.

If you order through us, I can walk you through it. Just ask for me on the phone.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2000, 12:34 AM
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Well Bigbear, I actually just put mine in today. It had been sitting under my bed for a while, but finally got to it. You do not have to touch the pinion, but you do have to take the ring gear off. If you follow the instructions, you don't have to readjust anything, just bolt it and line up the marks you make before disassembly. The hardest part was pulling the axles and stuff like that, putting the locker in the diff was pretty easy. I have the same kit you mentioned, the powertrax, without side gears. My side gears were in good shape. Don't forget to buy new axle seals ($3 each, at the most), and some gasket maker to reinstall the third member. And don't over tighten the third member bolts, I twisted one off before it even got tight. I was very happy with the results. I drove around making tight turns and listening for the clicking that it is supposed to make. At first I didn't know if it was working or not, but then I heard the clicking, very very quietly. Besides the very faint clicking in tight turns, I haven't noticed much difference at all, it is working very well. I am glad I picked the lock-right. Let me know if you have any questions, as it is still fresh in my mind since I just did it today.


post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2000, 08:38 AM
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I'd also add to Marcus's post...
It is very good to mark things to get a good idea of where things should be set up at when it all goes back together. However, you really should also double check your backpash and preload manually rather than go off of how it was set up at the factory 15 years and a hundred thousand miles ago. Wear occurs in the diffs and putting thing back exactly as they were may not be how things need to be set up today.
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