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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-26-2000, 08:55 PM
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Gearing down T-case vs Diffs

How come everyone reduces the Xfer case gears instead of the diffs? Is it easier, cheaper, stronger. Also do the 5.13's from Tracker/Sidekicks fit in early Sami's?

Troy

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-26-2000, 09:27 PM
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Re: Gearing down T-case vs Diffs

Different stokes for different folks man. My zuk is a daily driver as well as a hard pounded trail rig too. Anyone who has been on a run with me will testify to that. I run 33/12.50's, so I opted to go with axle gears instead of t/c gears. I run 5:12's. I didn't get the t/c gears because they only correct 31's in the high range side. I have rode in many zuks, and I think they are almost too high geared to start with.. JUST MY OPINION... I also live in the mountains of eastern Tennessee, so it may just be the 1.3 showing a weakness. Don't know. I did not like how a stock zuk performed though. I knew that I would have to continue to buy more gears if I only went with a t/c gear set. I now run 5:12's with no problem. I think it is geared a lot better than when I originally got it. Runs much better on the road too. I would like to have a lower low range, but I do not want to loose my drivability. It is my daily driver. So for me, it made much more sense to just get axle gears. Someone else may benifit from a set of t/c gears.
I believe the front r&p from a tracker/kick will work in the front or back of the sammy, but they must be installed in the sammy 3rd member. I am not a expert on these details. Someone else correct me if I am wrong or missing something. I run a completely stock kick front 3rd member in the front of my zuk. I also run a hybrid housing from Brent (Trail Tough) so I can run a stock tracker/kick rear 3rd member. I did not want to mess with swapping gears and 3rd members. I have heard many accusations that the aluminum front tracker/kick members are weak. Granted they may be weaker than the stock sammy, but ask James Heirs, Cris Robbins, Jbird and others who were at Tiftonia in march, and Uwharrie in April. They will tell you that the tracker/kick stock front 3rd member will take a real pounding because I am not easy on my rig. I figure if it won't take what I give it, I want it to break. I plan on having one for many years and I want to find the weak points asap...
As far as the early question, all my experience is with 86 and newer. So again, someone help here. I don't know it all...
Hope this helps.
bb

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 09:13 AM
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Re: Gearing down T-case vs Diffs

-Differential gears weaken the drivetrain. Transfer case gears strengthen it.
-Differential gears typically require professional installation. Transfer case gears can be installed by most anyone.
-Differential gears do cost more. We sell our transfer case budget gears for $409
-Transfer case gears make your vehicle a like tractor offroad. Huge low end reductions!

All that said, we do sell both kinds of gearing. Transfer case gears generally just make much more sense.



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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 09:52 AM
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Re: Gearing down T-case vs Diffs

Add these observations to your list:
Actual work time is easily half if you go with the t-case gears vs. the r&p's, and a lot less messy [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img].
Parts you buy for the 4.16 kit are new vs. rounding up 2 used Sidekick chunks + shipping (buying new r&p's costs even more).
You get more for less dollars spent w/ the t-case gears in the form of the 4WD-Low crawler gear. The r&p's will not reduce your crawl ratio as much.
Ring & pinion gears are good to help "zero-in" on your optimum rpm range for what size tires you're running.

Regards,
Tim J


post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-09-2000, 04:13 PM
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Re: Gearing down T-case vs Diffs

How does each affect driveline strength? I understand the with the smaller pinion gear it would be weaker (or with the aluminum gears from the Tracker)but how do the X-fer case gears make it stronger? Also, with a stock weak 1.3 and 31's, how much of an issue is this?

If I have to take out the rear diff to lock it up anyway, does the X-fer case still win in the ease/time/messines of installation contest?

In cost, the X-fer cases seem to win, unless you pull the parts from a pull it yourself place (but this adds to time and messiness.) Also, what is the average cost of rounding up the parts not included in the budget kit, and how neccesary are those parts?

I can't argue with the gear reduction of the x-fer case. What about top speed (for dunes and crap), though. I figure: stock low 65 @ 5000 RPM, 4.16 x-fer case 35 @ 5000 RPM, 5.12 R&P 47 @ 5000 RPM. Are these about right?

Since the Sami has a divorced x-fer case, a dual case setup shouldn't be too hard, right? Imagine, a stock and a crawler case, 2.49 High, 3.54 Medium, 5.87 Low and 9.44 TurboLow. Oh yes, this seems good. If only money grew on trees.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-10-2000, 08:39 AM
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Re: Gearing down T-case vs Diffs


You misread my post.... "drivetrain" strength. Neither axle gears nor tcase gears affect the 'stength' of the drivelines.

Putting a locker in a diff is easy. It will cut down on time to install R&Ps. However, R&P's would still necessitate professional installation. If you're out by one thousandth of an inch on reading your gear patterns, you can say goodbye to expensive ring and pinion gears in about a year. A tcase gears will last until we're all driving on Mars.

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