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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-09-2003, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Replacement

I started replacing my clutch and the bolts on the driveshaft are not cooperating. [img]images/graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] Should I just snap them off or WD40 'em and hope for the best? The only driveshaft I need to take off is the short one between the trans and T/C correct? Anything else I should know that would help would be appreciated. TIA. [img]images/graemlins/thud.gif[/img] Jim
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-09-2003, 10:26 PM
 
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Try PB blaster, brake fluid, liquid wrench, in decending order of effectiveness. WD40 isn't that great as a
penetrant.

if you have to snap them off there probably not worth reusing anyway.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-09-2003, 10:33 PM
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Heat the nuts a bit , that factory lock tite works real well ....
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2003, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Thanks for the replys. I'm going to head back out and try some more. The short driveshaft is the only one that needs to be removed? The T/C can stay? Thanks. Jim
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2003, 10:48 AM
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Re: Clutch Replacement

The transfer case can stay in there , it's a lot easier if you grind a notch in the crossmember on the driver's side next to the tranny mount . You'll see where when you attempt to remove the trans , it's a tight fit and it will come out if the motor is angled just right . Make sure to put a block behind the distributor drive so you don't break it on the firewall when the trans mount is removed . Also , it's a good idea to drain the trans before hand or you'll get a bath in gear oil . Most aerosol can lids such as carb cleaner will fit the trans output seal real well to keep the drips on your face to a minimum ....
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