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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2000, 07:46 PM
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clutch

well i finally got all the parts i needed to ges my sam going. instaled the cluch, trannny, t case and everything. now when i put it in gear and release the clutch it appears to be sticking. it was worse at first, but i drove it around the block a few times and it appears to be getting a little better. the engine will rev, but wont gain much speed. i can have the clutch released in gear and the brake on and it wont die. i think i did everything right. got fly resurfaced, new clutch everything, i tried to adjust the cable several times, still not it. i got the old lady to get in and press the clutch peddle a few times and it doesnt appear to be the cable. i read in my sucky haynes manual it may take 30 or 40 starts to seat the clutch. any one ever had this happen when they have a fresh clutch? well any help will be great .
thanks sc

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2000, 08:54 PM
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Re: clutch

are you sure the clutch cable is ok? when they fail, they look fine, but the freeplay in the pedal dissappears after a few presses on the pedal. it will seem like you can't adjust it. there is no visible indication of wear, as it wears internally, and causes the cable to stick inside the casing. they are around 60 bucks. might be something to think about. careful you don't damage that new clutch. good luck!

post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2000, 09:56 PM
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Re: clutch

well the clutch lever arm on the tranny is as far back as it can go with the peddle released.i got my wife in and had her press on the clutch. i will mess with the thing tommorrow. it is kinda weird. if i give it just a little gas it seems to get a little more speed like the tranny is kicking in. if i give it a little more gas it starts to slip. it is kinda hard to explain. it has gotten a little better since the first try. i couldnt even get it off of the lift ramps at first. had to put it into 4L. i just hope i didnt put the damn clutch disk in backwards, any body ever done that and what was the reaction.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-24-2000, 07:00 AM
 
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Re: clutch

You say you replaced the cluth, but did you replace to clutch pressure plate? I had a very similar problem, good engine rev, replaced the cable, checked to make sure the marks on the actuator arm matched up and still no forward motion. Replaced the clutch pressure plate and viola forward motion. Also make sure you put the clutch in corretly, it tells you which sides faces the flywheel.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-24-2000, 11:28 AM
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Re: clutch

i replaced clutch disk, press plate, t-o bearing,pilot bearing, new tranny bearings, i dont know what it could be. i hope i put the disk in right, i remember telling myself to make sure it is in correctly. i guess i will fart with it a little while longer then take it all apart again if i cant fix it.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-24-2000, 04:53 PM
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Re: clutch

i'd avoid driving it untill you get it sorted out. sounds like you may be glazing that nice new clutch. i'm sure you'll find the problem soon.

post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-24-2000, 06:37 PM
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Re: clutch

well i just pulled the tranny and clutch. everything looks to be ok. i didnt have the disk in backwards as i had feared. the disk looks ok to me, but i am no expert. what exactly should i look for? maybe the thing just wasnt lined up right? i am going to put it back in tommorrow and see what happens. i read somewhere that there should be a cross hatch something or another on the fly. it didnt look like when i got it back from the shop that there was a cross pattern on it, they just pulled it off a machine and said here you go it needed .030 off. any help?

post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-25-2000, 01:11 AM
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Re: clutch

Hi I had a problem with a new clutch and having the flywheel machined would have made it worst. It was caused by the new release bearing being 3mm thicker than the old one. This pushed the release arm back into the bell housing and the only way I could get the clutch cable to fit was to move the arm on the splines. You need to check and measure the depth of the release bearing and the clutch cover against the old one. When correct you should have free play at the peddle and you should feel the clutch engage just as you lift the peddle up.
Gordon england

post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-25-2000, 06:25 AM
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Re: clutch

You put the cross hatch pattern in with sand paper I have done it by hand and with a 2 inch disc in a drill. If you look at the flywheel and it is smooth but not warped from your slipping the clutch just sand it but it is likely to be warped so it needs machining. They also put in a proper cross hatch pattern after machining. Also check the pressure plate for glazed smooth, blue spots or warped from slipping clutch. If one of the two is markedly different an example would be fly wheel is smooth as glass and pressure plate sill has cross hatch then you know your problem is due to not properly resurfacing the flywheel.

There are limits to how much metal can be removed from flywheel just like brake disc. Sometimes fly wheel has to be shimmed to compensate for metal removed. This isn't your problem it would show by not being able to fully release clutch normally with combination hydraulic cylinder and release bearing thankfully not used on sami.

post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-26-2000, 06:47 PM
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Re: clutch

well i put everything back in and took her for a spin. i thought at first it was ok then it started doing the same thing. i give up on this peice of crap i am taking her to a shop and let someone else give it a try. then at least if it screws up again they can buy another clutch. i have never really liked manual trannys and now i know why,

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