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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-11-2000, 12:39 PM
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Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1.6l because my current 1.3 has valve and ring problems (especially cyl #1 and #4).

The 1.6 is just about ready for the machine shop now; head off, cam and rockers out. Pistons, connecting rods, and crank are still in. The short block looks pretty good so far: end play within specs, and cylinders still show original crosshatch. But there is something interesting:

One reason I'm rebuilding is low compression in #1 and #4 in my current 1.3l (testing shows problems with valves and rings). And the 1.6 I'm rebuilding has some serious carbon build-up on the valves of #1 and #4. #2 and #3 look great in the 1.6l and show decent compression on the 1.3.

Is there a know problem with know fixes for cylinders 1 and 4? 1 and 4 will receive greater cooling as a norm, but is that enough?

A question re the water pump housing rear tube with all the connections. How is this thing installed and how do you remove it? Looks like it is pressed in the water pump housing.

Also, the bores on this block appear to be sleeved. Are all 1.3l and 1.6l sleeved.

Thanks from the long winded one,
Scot

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-11-2000, 12:52 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Scot,
The tube for the water pump is just pushed in with on 'o' ring & held in place w/ the bracket. Make sure you replace that ring- one should come in your kit. Replace the one in the dist. housing, too

TJ

post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-11-2000, 03:25 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Thanks,

It has to pull out the back, correct? The different hose connections would prevent it from coming out the front?

Yeh, these might sound silly, but I'm new to these engines, and I haven't seen anything on that particular part in my Haynes manual.

Thanks
Scot

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-11-2000, 04:16 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Not really a problem specific to 1 and 4, probably just co-incidence.
The seat finishing of some engines leaves a lot to be desired, some are awful and consequently coke up the affected valves.
I assume you have removed the valves to fit new seals, if you clean the valve throats of the "bad" cyl.'s you'll find the seat inserts are causing an undercut area below the seat. during the overlap period, inlet valves act as exhaust valves and let a small amount of contaminated gas into the inlet port, ordinarily this would be drawn back into the chamber during the intake phase. The undercut causes the intake charge to stall at low valve lift, just when the intake valve is at it's coldest, at this point the hot carbon in the cont. mix. lands on the back of the valve and is baked on in the overlap period, when the whole cycle begins again.
The best thing to do is remove the undercut using a mounted point in a power drill, flexi drive, Dremel or similar. Not as scary or hard as it sounds, it's actually very easy, just take your time and smooth the under cut out, making the area slightly concave doesn't really matter as long as it's smooth. Stay away from the top edge and the seat area itself, concentrate on the lower 5 mm. Do all the valves, even the good ones, doesn't upset the mixture and improves response.
All the Suzuki alloy engines are sleeved.
Watch when you replace the oil seals on the crank and cam, some of them can get grooves worn in them, just trial fit the housings and position the seal ring in a "new" place to get the best seal. Fitting a new seal to the "old groove" can sometimes, but not always, result in it tearing or leaking.
Take a look at the file to see a reprofiled valve throat
Any problems e-mail me direct.

Iain

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-13-2000, 03:14 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Thanks for the help. Last night I looked closely at the head, and saw what you are refering to. I'll address that before sending it to the shop. Overall, It looks like the ports could stand some smoothing, and I need to do some port matching (at least using the old gasket, I'll get my new gasket set soon and actually use those)

Thanks again.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2000, 02:28 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Iain
I read your post to about Rebuilding Suzuki's 1.3/1.6 vere interresting, I will remember this. thank for the good info. Geneo

can you tell me if a 1991 1.6 engine from a Geo. can fit, and be put into a 1987 crabbed. model samurai without any modifications. If there are modifications, what would they be and how involved is it. Please e-mail me at [email protected]


post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 02:24 AM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

What did you find out about the 91 Geo motor into your Sammy? [email protected]

post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 01:33 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Don't know if your question was directed at me, but yes. The 1.6L that I'm currently rebuilding is from a 91' Geo Tracker. From what I've read it is a bolt-in swap with a kit. Check out the info pages at www.off-road.com or izook. There are a number of parts from the Tracker/Sidekick that you will also need (starter and alternator).

I'm waiting on my swap kit and cam right now from Rocky Road.

post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-03-2000, 12:30 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

hey i just got done with a 1.6l conv....it was alot of fun (joke)if ya get in a snag post it and i will help all that i can .every thing is fresh in my mind be cause i completed the swap last night and drove it home .

post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-03-2000, 12:50 PM
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Re: Rebuilding Suzuki\'s 1.3/1.6

Thanks for the offer of help. The head just got back from the machine shop, so I'll be putting that back together over the next week. The block is still in the shop. As soon as I get the engine back together I'll post a note about the swap. May even take some digital photos (more for my sake in putting it back together

Scot
Stock 91' Sami that needs alot of work.

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