Re: Ignition timing
i have an 89 jlx 5spd as well. i haven't checked the timing for a couple of years, and really don't remember much about it, so i just looked it up in my hayne's. i have no recollection of shorting any pins. i do remember doing that to some connector somewhere to draw codes out of the computer. hayne's does not say to plug the vac advance hose on the dist, but i did anyway. i remember that the vac advance did not seem to change the timing whether it was connected or not, but only caused the timing to change at higher speeds. i checked this by revving the engine and watching the timing mark with the hose connected, and with it disconnected and plugged. make sure that you have all your accessories off when you do this. the interior fan and any lights will up the engine speed, which could screw up your readings. mine idles at around 800 with no accessories on, and you can hear the injection is much quieter then, as it is not trying to idle up the engine with longer duration injections. obvious question is was the tim light on the first cyl, at the front. i will assume yes. i don't remember where the advance hose connects at the intake without running down to the parking garage. is it on the pcv system? i remember a tee there. that pcv must must must be replaced every year. they, and the related hoses plug up with goo. just wondering if vacuum is not making it to the advance due to goop. could have a bad advance too. if the hoses do plug up, you could blow out your valve cover gasket and lose oil first, then your engine, and both very quickly. happened to me, caught it in time. cardboard in front of the rad will get the engine temp up enough in winter to boil off the condensation so it won't plug up the pcv. careful you don't overheat. i use the interior fan on high heat to regulate engine temp on warm winter days. watch out for an oil leak at the front of the engine that seems like the oil pan. the oil pump is vertical on the front of the engine, about an inch thick. the gasket between it and the block fails. check your oil frequently to get a handle on losses, and or consumption. i have 182,000 km on mine now and use around 1 litre in 1200 km, after having the leak fixed. 500 to fix it at the dealer by the way, but worth it for peace of mind. might want to get several tanks of injector cleaner through it too, if you don't know much about the maintenance history. change the trans, diffs, and transfer case oils too. apologies if you already know about this stuff, just trying to help. mine still runs great and has never been apart, and has only had brakes and exhaust and tires over the years. and a new cat. and a new clutch cable. common. if you think the clutch is bad, change the cable first. if the freeplay in the pedal dissappears and the pedal seems like it won't return fully to the top, or you can't get the cruise to engage, that's probably the problem. only 60 bucks for a cable. hmm. wish i could hook up my tim light and check tim readings at several different engine speeds for you so you could compare, but my stuff is in a different city in a storage locker. divorce, yada yada, looking to buy a new garage, i mean house right now. whew. hope something in there was helpful.