Re: Flat-Towing Finesse?
I tow mine all the time with my Durango down to Uwharrie. I used to remove the driveshaft, but now I just leave it connected for the short trip (60 miles?). I don't go over 65 mph on 220 south.
What is your tow vehicle? Although the Sami is fairly light, I wouldn't use a tow vehicle under 4000 lbs. Accelerating is not the problem; it is stopping! The first time you tow it, I would go out on a country road and try some semi-emergency stops so you get the feel of the setup. I try to give vehicles around me a lot of room.
My Durango has a 4spd auto. In the city I don't use 4th (OD). This helps eliminate shifting and heat build up. Once on the highway, I will use 4th unless it is very hilly.
As far as the Sami, you have to put the key in ACC position so that the steering wheel is UNLOCKED. Hubs should be in free position. If you disconnect the driveshaft, it doesn't matter what your transfer case/transmission is in (unless your front hubs are locked!). If you leave it connected, put transfer case and transmission in Neutral. Some say to put transmission in 2nd gear, but I don't like the idea of this because if the transfer case somehow slipped out of Neutral your tranny would be engaged along with your engine (i.e., probably a lot of damage would occur to your tranny/engine). I read a post on an RV forum where this happened because a heavy object in the towed vehicle shifted and hit the transfer case lever!
As for the lights, I have a manual switch to change from factory wiring to tow wiring (I can give you details if you want). You can also splice into the stock wiring, but you should use some fairly high amp diodes to protect your tow vehicle's ECM. Another option is to just jerry rig some trailer lights on a metal bar or buy the magnetic light kit (available at your local Super Walmart).