R&P's or 4:!??? please help!!! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

i am need of gears bad!!!!! i was looking into the trnsfer case gears at first and got to thinking about it! if you change the t/c gears it doesn't releive any stress on the drivetrain.(driveshafts, etc.) if i were to do r&p's there would only be stress on the axles. has anyone had a problem with ujoints failling with t/c gears? the t/c gears would be cheaper but i would end up having to beef up the mounts and driveshafts. that might be more expensive in the long run. does anyone have anything to say about the yukon gears? i need to make a decision pretty qwik. i could install the r&p's myself but how hard is it to do the t/c gears? i would like to get the rro t/c gears since they are the cheapest. are they strong? someone please make up my mind for me. please tell me your own experiences with both. i am running a 31" tire but might want to got to a 33 someday. what do ya'll think about the stock sammi axles with 33's? please help, i need to do something qwik! thanks in advance!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 06:58 PM
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

I'd go with the tcase gears........probably 5.8's if you plan to run 33's. Stock axles will hold up to 33's but it depends on your driving style also.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 07:15 PM
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

My thoughts on the subject.
As of now, I only have the Calmini 4.16 Gearset in my t-case.
Installing them is very simple, and if you can install r&ps, You can install t-case gears blindfolded.

In my ideal world, distribute the load. Do the t-case 4.16, and put kick 4.1 in the diffs.

I am in the process of installing the 4.1's now.
As far as 33's-- Depends on your driving stile as to whether you will break axles.
I have been driving mine now for a year with 33's welded rear diff., and calmini 4.16 gears in the t-case and have not broken ANYTHING.

Alaska offroading is very hard on rigs, From rocks to sand to gravel to rivers to glacier silt ( About the consistancy of face powder) To bottemless gumbo mud pits to swamp to Muskeg.
Breakage depends on how much you know and understand the limitations of your rig. And how you use the clutch and Go pedal.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 09:35 PM
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

I run the petroworks GRS 2 with a 4.89.1 reduction and stock R&Ps. It pulls 31's nicely and to date I have had no u joint or driveline problems, and I wheel it pretty hard. Unless you planing on running some monster tires it does the job. It gives a 18% reduction in high range and a 115% reduction in lo. Easy install and even has a 2WD lo feature. Finial drive ratio in lo range with stock R&Ps is 66/1, with "kick R&Ps it ups it to 100/1.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 10:42 PM
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

I agree with AkDale. I also have the GRS I, and while it's nice with the 32's I am running, I do wish it was lower. I have also not broken anything (OK a window, tranny mount, t-case arms, and a wheel bearing) and I WAIL on it. I have been waiting to break something though.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 07:03 AM
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

I have been pondering the thought of R&P's or the T-case reduction for some time. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to go with with the T-case first and maybe do my Ring's after that. My reason for that comes with I want to go the cheap route first and the easy route. I plan on going with 5:8 and run 31' tires. That should be quite a slow moving ride with out doing my R&P's, seeing how the 5:8 are designed for 33's or higher. I have spoken with Tim Tackett about this numerous times and he feels this is the best first route to go. If you are able to weld they yoiu could do your own renforced T-case armes. That will save you some money also. I dont know if you like what I have wrote but this is the route I am going to take. Tom
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 08:51 AM
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

first realy decide what tires you want it is alot cheaper to do it once and do it right the first time i had 215 75 15 tires the 4 to (1 grs 1) was a unbelieveable with those tires but now i have 31 x 10.5 tires and wish i had a 5 to 1 transfercasemy gears are just a little steep for me now

as far as u joints go i ate them with small tires and i think how long they last has more to do with quality and driveline angles being set properly i have broke 1 since i went spoa and it was because i lost the retainer clip it was brand new it only was together for 3 days

if you do ring and pinions remember that setup is critical to long gear life as well as quality parts saving $100 isnt much if they only last a year thats why i like the idea of the hybrids larger ring and pinion factory setup and they are allready broke in and they are about the same cost as buying just the ring and pinion gears
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

i hate to break stuff so i will keep the 31's and will go yota axles if i go to 33's. i really don't need 100 to1 crawl ratio. i live in texas. the only rocks here are the gravel in our driveways! what do ya'll think?
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 02:12 PM
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

I am running the 4 to 1 t-case gears in my sammi and love it (33x12.50 swampers). Besides if you are thinking of upgrading axles in the future, you would be wasting your money installing new gears in your sammi axles. My .02
post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 07:00 PM
 
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Re: R&P\'s or 4:!??? please help!!!

Absolutly do tcase gears first. R&P will give you decent power back on the road after switching to bigger tires but they alone will not give you the crawl ratio you want. Tcase gears are the biggest bang for the buck.
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