I just got done putting on my new brack lines and I cannot get my pedal hard. I have bled them about 10 times and the pedal will pump up then go really soft if I drive 5 feet and slam on the brakes. I recently changed a wheel cylinder, but everything seemed o.k. after that. Do I have a bad part somewhere? Thanks guys.

I'd check to see if you have a wheel cylinder leaking first , then make sure to bleed the rear bias valve on the frame and re-bleed the rear brakes . Also, if the e-brake actuating arms aren't free at their center joint, the brakes won't be adjusted enough to give you the pedal height you should have . Those arms rust up pretty easily , I've had to heat mine up several times to keep them loosened up . Hope this helps,
Sarge

Thank you for the reply Sarge. I cannot figure out how to bleed the Bias valve, is there something that I am missing?

There should be a bleeder port right on it . Just have someone pump up the brakes, then open it up and let out the fluid a few times . Make sure to close it while the pedal is on the floor, or you'll suck air back into the system .
Sarge

I've got nearly the same symptoms....How did you make out? I just replaced my lines as well and I can't get a good pedal. I've replaced wheel cylinders as well...........

Are you sure you adjusted the rear drums up tight enough? If there adjusted too loose it
will feel like you have air in the lines, but you can pump it up with a 2 stroke hit on the brake pedal.

This might be elementary, but I've dont it before.
The zuk resavoir is pretty small, I forgot to check the fluid level and was sucking in air there.

One of the biggest problems I've run across with this brake system is getting the rotten adjuster arms to work properly . If you are having any problems getting the pedal height back , check the arms that connect the e-brake into the drums . That arm also sets up the tension for the adjusters , so if the pivot in the arm isn't working real smooth , it won't be able to work the adjuster . I've had to use the torch a couple of times to get it loose, now it's full of anti-seize , so that won't happen again .
Sarge

Both my adjuster arms pivot smoothly at the 2 pivot points. What I'm unclear on is the self adjuster mechanism. I replaced my shoes as well as the cylinders & springs. Once installed, the shoes "should" adjust after several stomps on the pedal. If the adjuster is free, this should happen...
How does one adjust the brakes properly?

Crow, the adjusters usually work in very small increments. A couple of stomps will never adjust
them quickly, unless zuks had a radically different design. I haven't been inside my rears yet so
I suppose anything is possible.

Your best bet is to get them as tight as you can, and still get the drums on. Then adjust by hand
thru the port on the back of the backing plate till you get a bit of drag. Hit the pedal and re-check.

Then back off til it just clears or has momentary kisses while rotating (there never completly round)

If you do it consistantly you will not have any pull even with 4 wheel drums. (any one here still
remember front drums? LOL)

I test for pull with a test stop from about 20mph and hands off the steering wheel. If that
doesn't pull, you nailed it.