1.3 re build HELP! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Suzuki GEO All Discussion of all things, Suzuki and GEO

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-18-2002, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,171
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1.3 re build HELP!

OK Guys and Gals~ It's been a long time since I overhauld a moter and it was a chevy small block (We're talking 20+ years. SOOOOO
How much on avrage does it cost to have 1.3 bored out? ( what exactly is having it strocked?)
Also how much do you recomd going? Is it best just to go the minum Say .10 does it up your power any to go more?
I am thinking of going to a high compresion flat top piston. do they have to be pressed on the rods? (COST?) If I were to lose a timing belt will I have a problem with the flat tops? (VALVES AND PISTONS HAVEING A FATEL RONDEVUIE)?
What about a 16 valve insted?
Who has the best deal on a bottom end Kit ?
Any advice and info will be apriciated!!
OLDCODGER is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-18-2002, 09:59 PM
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 314
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

if you're going High compressions, you will have to go for .20 or 40 over because thats the sizes that the high compression pistons are availlable for sammy's 1.3L if I remember well. and yes, it'll give you more power to rebore, but if you want even more, have the block decked (for increase compression) also... [img]images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

Over here, its approximately 30-40$ Canadian (big average depending where you get it done) per Hole for drilling (reboring) an engine. so if its a 4, its 120$ Canadian. so, I assume approx. 70$ US for a rebore for a 4 cyl. thats assumning the block is ready to bore, nothing attached, etc...

Asian Auto parts have some nice stuff you might want to check em out.


My bits...
MOADIB is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 07:15 AM
Keyboard Implanted
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Central Illinois
Posts: 3,928
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

The usual minimum for boring a 1.3 block is .020". Decking the block on top of that will increase compression, but you'd better be measuring total volume to stay away from exotic fuel . Piston clearance is usually not a problem, but the smart way to do them is to measure out your clearances . 9.5:1 is plenty of ratio, anything over that just creates problems with the bottom end . Most machine shops charge $8 per hole for boring , some cost more . Make sure the bore clearance specs are kept tight, since that is the biggest compression loss . The rods are pressed in pins , but the pistons absolutely have to float free on the pins or they'll bind . Asian has about the best price on bearing kits as well as pistons and rings .
Sarge is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 07:37 AM
Posts: n/a
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

Yeah,what they said [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I wouldn't bore it any more than you HAVE to in case you need to do it again down the road. I just rebuilt the motor in my wife's Zook. spent around $250 & two weekends on it. I think you'll like wrestling this motor around a LOT better than a BIG HEAVY GM motor!
Feel free to e-mail me with questions since the rebuild is still fresh in my mind. [email protected]
post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 07:49 AM
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 889
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

You also asked about having it stroked? Not these cuz you need a new crank. I'm going to stroke my 350 LT1 to a 383 and that involves having it bored over and replacing the crank to allow for longer piston travel. That would also add into the cost because the block usually needs some extra machining to allow for clearance for the new crank.

Hemogoblin is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 08:18 AM
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,009
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

actually you can stroke the 1298 motor by intalling the 1324 crank but the compression will be around 10.5 to 1 or take the crank and pistons from a 1324 and install it in a 1298 block but all you end up with is a 1324 motor the blocks are the same the crank stroke and pistons are the difference
szki272 is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 09:19 AM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,509
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

If your goal is performance gain, go with a 16 valve. If economy is the goal and your current 1.3 is shot, find another 1.3 and leave stock and install it.

You can dump alot of money into the 1.3 without even approaching the HP of the 16 valve.

Just my opinion!
Farther is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,171
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

I'm looking for POWER!!! Any idea of pricing and avalability of a 16 valve ? Am wondering about the dependability of the more complacated 16 valve as well . I would also have to have an adpter kit added to the price , I'm looking for all options though!!
OLDCODGER is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 09:53 AM
Posts: n/a
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

When I was deciding what to do I e-mail Asian auto and and here's there reply........

Definitely go with the Sumo II "Go Fast" motor. They run faster, and
stronger than a 1.6. As long as you have a weber and 2" exhaust. Our 1.3
liter block, crankshaft, rods, and Flat Top pistons bored .40 over. Block
is decked for higher compression. Sumo II Head (1.3 head with 1.6 exhaust
valves, exhaust port opened up for better flow, .20 mill on the head, with
our low end cam). It comes with a new oil pump installed. Also has all
remainder gaskets and O-rings to complete the job. Total package on that
motor is approximately, to your door, for $1850. That includes a $300
refundable core, if received within 30 days of shipment. Take the Isky Cam
and throw it in the garbage lol.

This motor is proven to be faster and stronger than a 1.6. If you don't
believe me ask around....lol.........Or, if you want, we will build you a
1.6. Give me a call, we will talk about the "goodies".

Thanks Casey

Oh ya I still have'nt done anything about my tired smoking engine.

post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 02:03 PM
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 598
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 1.3 re build HELP!

My Ole' Lady just rebuild hers, as a matter of fact she is still in the process. This is what we had done, and we got the MINIMUMS taken off(the engine was absolutely trashed!)
-crank done .020 over (less would have still left the gall marks)
-block bored .040 over (thought I might have to get #2 resleeved)
-block decked .010 over (just to make straight)
-head milled .020 over (just to make straight)
-valve guides pressed out and new pressed in
-valve seats ground
-piston rods reconditioned
-pistons pressed off and new pressed on
-everything hot tanked
ALL for $327! I thought that was pretty reasonable to save what I thought was a complete loss.
-Shawn- is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome