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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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another newbie suspension question!!

Ok, here goes....I just purchased an 88.5, bonestock with 64k on it. It is begging to be changed!! Here's my dilema, I will be driving it daily, so my 12 mpg GMC can sit home!! I will be driving on a freeway and 2 miles of unplowed dirt roads in the winter. (I work for a fire department. If my neighbor didn't plow before I get home and it snowed, I will be breaking a new trail on the way home.) I need a good highway/street ride more than I need 30" of ramp travel. So will I be better off with a Calmini shackle reverse and 235s for on road use? What is the opinion about the calmini 5" combo? Will a spoa improve the ride over stock on the freeway? I want to improve the freeway ride more than anything and put better meats for snow and dirt under me. I plan on some kind of steering fix, calmini if I do the reverse, rockyroad if I do the spoa. Is the breeze better than the rockyroad? I'm leaning towards the rockyroad spoa because it sounds like it will be easier to keep the angles right. I'd like to do the install by myself with a buddy doing the welding and the breeze sounds like it would be harder to set up. Any opinions?

How about tire sizes for those of you who wheel in the snow. Will a 235 work ok or will the 31x10.5 work better in the white stuff? And how much power will I lose with the 31s? I want to do engine mods (DT header, cam and intake) and lift first. I will have to wait for $$ for a transfer regear as well as bumpers and roll cage.

Thanks for your help guys!!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 05:51 PM
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

If ya want to improve the ride u gota swap the front springs.
I did the rear's up front swap....WOW!!!!!...what a nice ride!!!
U can do the swap very cheep and easy.
U can make all the parts for about 20 bucks.
I bought my rear springs used for 20 bucks and new shocks and upper mounts for another 100 dollars, total 150 bucks with all the bolts needed.
I alredy had the spring over done for a wile before i did the rear up front swap, i also did that myself for less than 100 bucks.....all and all it rides grate and handles good....

Rob
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 06:41 PM
 
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

rocky road spoa $85 or breeze spoa $35 as far as install it realy isnt that hard for the rro ones you need something to clean the axles ( wire brush) breeze need a small grinder $20 harbor freight ( probably should own one anyways listed in the top 10 favorite tools on this board)

instalation get 2 pieces of 1.5 square tubing drill a 1/4 hole 1 inch in from each end thru both sides and another in the middle find 2 allen bolts at the local hard ware store with a 1/2 inch diameter head place in hole in the middle place about 12 inches of all thread thru the holes at each end and install wing nuts you should end up with a clamp sort of 2 horosonal bars held together by the allthread place one on top of the old perch one under the new one tighten the wing nuts by hand untill the new perch is held securly in place then use a tape meashure / calipers (even cheap calipers are better than a tape meashure ) adjust the wingnut tightness untill bars are parell check that the perches are lined up side to side tack in place remove clamp weld down perminately then meashure and cut some 1 1/4 x 1/4 flat steel to fit between the old perch and the new one weld that in place it is kind of hard to describe maybe i can take pix later
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 06:48 PM
 
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

You didn't say what you have for tools or skill! If you own or can get a welder, go SPOA! I just did mine and it rides killer. You should also plan on installing some type of anti-wrap or traction bar.

I used the Breeze parts because I liked the design and the REASONABLE price.

If you don't have a welder, you could do a bolt-on SPOA or the Calmini 5" SR combo.

If you plan to install 235's or larger, I would wait on the engine mods and do the t-case gears first. 31-10.50's should work good for your use, although narrower might work better on snowy roads where it is only 1 1/2-2 feet deep.

I would contact Tim at northcoastoffroad.com. He is the only Breeze dealer in the states. The service I recieved from him was way better than any other Suzuki vendor I have dealt with!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

szki272,

Thanks for the info...let me see if I understand though. Was the jig you described for the breeze mounts? Don't the rr mounts touch the stock mounts? Did you use new shackles or lower stock mounts as well? How about the rear traction bars? Some companies insist that you need them with a spoa, is it only if you eliminate the overload springs? Is the ride lots better without the overloads? Remember I will be at freeway speeds daily, so i don't want to bounce into the next lane!!

Thanks guys!!
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

crazycooter,

I have a buddy who is a great welder. He made my rear bumper and nerfs for my last rig, an '87 4runner. He would do my welding, but we don't have the tools for perfect caster alignment, that is why I was leaning towards the rr mounts. I talked to Tim already, he was very helpful. I live in WA state, so I also toyed with the idea of going up to Canada and have Breeze do my install or at least purchase my stuff directly from them. It depends on the exchange rate, if I can save some money..... What is your opinion of the Calmini 5" combo. Remember my top priority is a good highway ride, followed very closely by having fun!!

Thanks.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 07:20 PM
 
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

Ditto most of what crazycooter said.

The Breeze Xover steering is the best design if you go SPOA for bump steer correction.
(Yes Glenn we know your opinionof the RRO's, but your biased and have an ax to grind...)

The RRO over the top tie rod kit should NOT be used on road as it removes all Ackermann out of your
steering and thats bad for front alignment in turns.

If you stay SPUA and do a SR, a dropped pitman will give better results for bump steer removal.
The basic object is to get the drag link level. Zbars do not correct bump steer, only clear the springs,
so I cannot recomend them.

If you go SPOA a traction bar is going to help your springs live longer, espesially if you go with the
Xfer gears for correcting the tire size gearing effect.

Make sure your shocks are up to the job if you go with soft flexy springs. I recomend an adjustable shock.
Staying a bit stiffer in the springs will help on road, but dont try to compensate for bad shocks with
stiff springs, you wont like it.

Lastly be sure the steering damper is still good and all spring bushings are in there prime. bad bushings
can cause a mutitude of problems.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 08:45 PM
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

I would also get Petroworks a call they have everything in stock and can talk you guy's though it over the phone [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

www.Petroworks.com
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-18-2002, 01:08 AM
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

I completely agree with crazycooter. I went with the Breeze deluxe SPOA from NCO. The ride and handling are greatly improved over stock, and Tim's service is excellent. In one word, the Breeze crossover steering is SWEET!

Money is better spent on a set of 4.16 transfer case gears than on engine modifications.

30X9.50 Tires fit under the stock fender flares and can be mounted on cheap aftermarket rims (3.75 backspace) without rubbing on the springs.

I drive about 50 miles a day on dirt, winding secondary country roads, and the highway. With the gear/tire combination, performance remains equal to what it was when stock.

The question about whose spring perches are better has been revisited here many times. I think that the most important thing is to take the extra time to make sure that they are positioned as accurately as possible. No fancy tools are required. I like the previous idea of clamping the front perches in place with a couple of pieces of long tubing to align them. I used a couple of 4 foot levels to check mine. With one level under the old perch and one on top of the new one, measure the distance between the two levels at their ends. If the measurements are the same, then the perches are parallel to each other. The rear perches can be positioned using a cheap magnetic angle gauge on the pinion flange and a level on the new spring perch.

I only wish that I had gone SPOA about 100K miles ago!

Good luck.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-18-2002, 08:41 AM
 
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Re: another newbie suspension question!!

the rocky road mounts are suposed to self align but they are made so they fit all variances in factory welding and misalignment or so i was told when my drivers side had a 1/4 inch gap between it and the axle tube after 3 weeks of phone calls and emails i was told that was normal and it just needed to be ground to fit so i would rather save the money and spend it else where
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