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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 08:34 PM
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Drip ... drip ... drip ...

Hey y'all, long time no post. School's kickin' my tail. Anyhoot, I was tinkering around with my '88 Zuki a few weekends ago, replacing the belt, finishing hose replacement, etc and so forth when I noticed an oil leak. Nothing big or major, but from the looks of the grime under the car on the axles and such, looks to have been around for awhile. She runs strong and fine, and I've been checking the oil a few times a week even before I noticed the leak. I was debating replacing the gaskets in the upcoming weeks before it turns really cold, and was just wondering if this might just be too much of an ambitious project for me to take on and if I'd be better off sucking it up and heading to a mechanic.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 08:43 PM
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Re: Drip ... drip ... drip ...

in order to find out you would have to find where it is leaking from. some are realy easy to change and other arent. it could be a simple valve cover gasket or it could be a rear main or something.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 09:35 PM
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Re: Drip ... drip ... drip ...

The 5 top oil leak points on a Samurai are:

4) Front/rear bearing seal (tie for 4th place.

3) Oil Pan

2) valve cover gasket


1) (by a LONG shot!) distributor "O" ring seal.

To cut to the chase, use a degreaser (formula 409?) and clean up the back of the head around the area where the distributor case attaches to the head with three bolts. Drive the Samurai for a couple of days. Check where you cleaned. Oily again? you found the problem!

Order a replacement o-ring from any of our friendly online vendors or from the local auto parts store. It's not very expensive.

Replacing is a difficult task in that you will need to mark the position of the distributor rotor alignment point and the EXACT alignment of the distributor as determined by the big bolt in the arching adjustment slot on the side of the distributor. Once these two items are marked by a scratch or white-out or something, you can remove the top of the distributor, remove the three bolts that hold the rest of the case to the head, remove and replace the O-ring that sits between the head and the distributor case. Be careful to remove the ground connection under one of the three bolts. Do not turn the engine over (try to start it) or you'll lose the marked position on the rotor.

Reassemble everything including the grounding connector in their original alignment using the marks that you made. If they don't line up exactly as they were before it was dissassembled, the engine timing will be off and it may run like crap until you get it timed properly.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-16-2002, 06:21 PM
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Re: Drip ... drip ... drip ...

it looks like i wont be doing anything this week end so bring it by and we can look at it
i belive i have an extra o-ring here at the house
i live close to exit 44 on I-20 just past six flags

call me if you want to 678-468-8911 7am to 9pm
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-16-2002, 06:35 PM
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Re: Drip ... drip ... drip ...

mine has the same issue...turns out the rear main seal went out..now my front main seal went out so I am busy lol but its nothing major or life threatenning but it does tally itself up to where I am putting a lil bit in about once a month
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