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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 02:48 PM
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Changed the cylinder head. Update

I changed the head on my 87 jx. It was smoking from burned stem seals. I replaced all of the gaskets and sealed everything tight. When started finally I have no power, and a horrible racket from the head. I have tried rotating the camshaft 180 and 360 degrees (did not index cam on install) but every time I start it same deal. I've tried TDC feom #4 and #1 but the same thing every time. Noisy and no power. What next? Where to start over from?

I must have taken the front of the engine apart 10 times! Was frustrated and mad. Sat down to read the book again, "after you adjust the first four valves at TDC, turn the crank and adjust the other four" I was watching the cam sprocket turn 1 full turn, the crank sproket turns 2 times for every 1 360 turn of the cam. Once I realized my boneheaded mistake, I readjusted and buttoned everything back up and Presto!, it runs again! Thanks for the advice everyone who responded, it all made me think harder.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 03:38 PM
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Re: Changed the cylinder head.

Well, index your cam in porportition to the crank, make sure your distrib is set up correctly, make sure your spark wires are on correctly, did you plug up the head gasket oil holes or put the head gasket on backwards? Is there any oil shooting up into the head?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 04:45 PM
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Re: Changed the cylinder head.

It is possible to put the head gasket on backwards thus blocking the oil drain passages.

Try the following before you remove the head to check your gasket, though:

Take the timing belt cover off (sorry) and make sure that the cam sprocket mark is pointing straight up and the crank key is pointing straight up. Remove the timing belt and re-install it with the tensioner loose along with the idler pulley center bolt loose. Re-install the belt with all the slack out on the right (un-tensioned) side. hand-turn the crank CLOCKWISE two turns with a 17 mm ratchet, then tighten down the idler tensioner and the idler pulley center bolt.

With the two belt pulley markers still pointing straight up, check the distributor rotor point. It should be pointing up across the engine towards the drivers' side fender and a little towards the rear. The tip should roughly line up with the top plug wire on the distributor cap. You may need to remove and reseat the distributor to get this alignment with the fine timing adjustment in the center of the adjustable range on the distributor hold-down bolt.

Re-install the timing belt cover and valve cover.

The spark plug wiring on the distributor is as follows (clockwise from the topmost distributor connector): 1,3,4,2.

Good luck!
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 07:31 PM
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Re: Changed the cylinder head.

I'd try what the guys said but also pull the valve cover off & have someone start it up for a minute. It'll make a little bit of a mess but it give you a chance to see everything working & try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from & most impotantly, make sure that plenty of oil is getting to the head.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-07-2002, 07:51 AM
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Re: Changed the cylinder head.

You adjusted the valves after putting it all back together...Right? Low power & noises are pretty indicative of misadjusted valves.
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