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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 04:19 AM
bneiman
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Clutch replacement question!

My stock clutch has been smoked for the last time. It's dead.(gosh darn lockrite killed it! aargh!) Since the lockrite is staying I've decided to go with a centerforce dual friction. My question is what else do I need to get with the clutch? If you were replacing a clutch, what all would you get for the job to be done right? Bearings, etc....... Thanks for any info.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 04:34 AM
zukiman
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Re: Cutch replacement question!

While you have the tranny off the motor, you'll want to replace both bearings (pilot & throwout) and get ahold of a clutch alignment tool. Also inspect your clutch cable for any damage and replace it if needed.

I have used several clutches over the years. Based on my experience, I rank the clutches I've experienced personally in the following order from worst to best:

Sachs Heavy Duty
Stock
Centerforce 1 "Gold" (not Dual Friction)
Petroworks High Performance

The Centerforce lasted through years of trail abuse and was replaced by the Sachs. I wound up having to take the Sachs out after a couple thousand miles of mostly street driving because its clamping power was so weak it would literally smoke after even one brisk standing-start acceleration on the street. I replaced it with the Petroworks clutch, which has performed flawlessly for thousands of miles. I have not once even gotten it hot, and I've never experienced unwanted slip. It also has very progressive clutch takeup, so it is easy to precisely modulate on the trail.

The Petroworks clutch costs a bit more than others, but you definitely get what you pay for.

-- Geoff Beasley
post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 07:08 AM
mikrosilakhan
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Re: Cutch replacement question!

I hated to put the money out at the time but i knew it would pay for itslef getting the 4.1 gearset.. I sinatlled a regular napa cutlch along with the gearset and havent even began to smoke it once in the last 3 months...
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 07:17 AM
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

I recommend having the flywheel resurfaced also, but don't have the ring gear reversed. HTH
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 08:57 AM
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

I also highly recommend Petrowork's Dual Friction unit . It's also a very good idea to replace the throwout and pilot bearings . Make sure the outer shaft collar where the throwout bearing slides on is clean and lightly greased . Also, lubricate the fork end tips , and check the front seal in the trans . If the flywheel needs to be resurfaced , some of the newer grinding machines do not require the ring gear to be removed . I you absolutely have to remove the gear , it has to be heated somewhat to be removed , as it's cast iron . Any time that gear is removed from the flywheel , the wheel has to be rebalanced , or you'll have a serious vibration . Hope this helps,
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 10:48 AM
bneiman
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

Alright then. Thanks for the good info. I'm going to pick up some parts (maybe) 4th of July today. Nothings probobly open but atleast I can order my clutch to be here tommorow. I'm gonna try the Centerforce dual Friction first. Maybe the petroworks clutch next time. They are both excellent products. I'm convinced by my research. Well i'm off to find some bearings then. Thanks again. oh yeah , Is the alignment tool a dealer only part or NAPA etc.... I'm gonna need that.
post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 11:34 AM
 
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

All said so far is good advice. I would add that the seals, Rear main and Tranny, should be inspected close. Personally, If they have a lot of miles, why risk it, replace em.

Most people wind up pulling the dist to keep from breaking it on the firewall when pulling the tranny. Good time to replace those O-rings too. A leak back there is right over the clutch, so you could be risking the new clutch. Not likely, but possible

Oops forgot the alignment tool question, Many clutch kits come with the alignment tool. If not, its not really necessary. You can align the plate to the outer edge of the pressure plate by feel through the 3 uh, "arches" on the cover. I have used an alignment tool I think once in over 30 years, and had as much trouble with that one getting the tranny in as any I ever did. Most just drop right in. Biggest trick is to make sure the tranny is in 4th or 5th gear to allow you to rotate the input shaft if needed. Mostly its not needed.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 12:20 PM
 
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

I have never had to remove a distributer, but you should check the seal inside the bell housing on the tranny. That gets real brittle over time and will leak.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 12:41 PM
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

Ok. gotcha on the alignment tool and rear main seal info. etc... Thanks again guys for your time and good info.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2002, 05:04 PM
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Re: Clutch replacement question!

diffenatelly get the flywheel resurfaced, and check your mounts and stuff, dont skimp on anything. youll do the job right, but if you skimp on money, itll end up wrong when you really test it.
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