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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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SPOA?

Ok I did the search so know one whine about these questions.

I am getting ready to do my spoa and I am not going to weld it at my house I'm just going to drive a short distance to get it done. So this is my questions:

1. Why take the tires off and remove the axle? Why not remove the spring at both ends, jack the body up with a handy man put the pads on the axle and then connect the springs back up.

2. When putting the pads on the front end I have heard it is bad to rotate the front axle up to get a better angle on the drive shaft. Good, Bad, Or was I drunk when I read it and misunderstood?

Other then that everything is pretty much ready to go I have read enough that I don't think it'll be to hard. I've had my suspension apart enough lately that it comes apart real easy now.
thanks alot
shawn
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 10:20 PM
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Re: SPOA?

on not moving the perches to do a spoa..... if you put them same as factory you dont have as much problems with it not wanting to steer good..... as in wandering all over the road
post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: SPOA?

So it's not good then to tilt the pinion angle up? I couldn't figure that out.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 10:31 PM
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Re: SPOA?

theres people on here that can explain it much better than i can..... but is sorta like stock you are pushin a bike backwards..... you know how the wheel stays strait then???? when you change the pinion angle its like pushin it foreward.... and you know how the bike wheel likes to turn 1 way or the other
post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 10:39 PM
 
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Re: SPOA?

Thats right, do not rotate your axle at all, unless it is to correct previous bad castor. stock has about 3 1/2 deg castor built in. if you are using longer front shackles you may want to rotate the pinion down to compensate. you losw about 1/2 deg of castor for each inch of shackle extension. stock shackle length is about 2 3/4 ".

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 10:44 PM
 
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Re: SPOA?

Do you mind if I ask a question? Why did you decide to do a spoa, and how many inches over stock are you planning on going? I'm not sure I'd want to do one. Well, not yet.
I'm about five inches over stock, measuring from the top of front axle to frame. With a spua suspension, I can stuff 30x9.5 tires into a wheel well and have no rub anywhere. That's with 23" of wheel travel.
My point is that unless your running 33's, I'd keep it sprung under and go with Wrangler springs. I think it's a good setup with the 30" tires.
To answer your question about pinion angle on front axle. Your right; it will affect your steering. The farther you move the caster (I think that's what it's called) away from pretty much straight up and down, the more you affect your steering. Turning radius will increase. I don't know the spec's, but I don't think it should be changed more than a degree or two. Your definitely going to need some way to control the axle wrap also. Something else to contend with spoa.
Either way, good luck with your project.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 11:20 PM
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Re: SPOA?

here are some answers:

1. Removing the axles entirely lets you get to them to pre-clean the new weld points. I removed the shackle ends of the springs, took off the axles by cutting the old U-bolts (you should replace them with fresh ones anyway), cleaned them up, did the welding and bolted them back in. Doing this means that you could move only the axles to the welding shop instead of the whole truck. The axles are also a lot less heavy and somewhat easier to handle by one person without the wheels on (although I guess you could leave the wheels on...)

2. The front axle MUST remain exactly at the same angle as when it was mounted SPUA! The end result should be that the spring face of the new perches MUST be exactly parallel to that of the old SPUA perches before tag-welding the new ones in place.

Changing this angle can cause adverse handling! One comparison often made is that the wheels will behave like the flapping front castors on a beat-up shopping cart if you angle the rear of the third member up to improve the operating angle of the front driveshaft's U-joints.

You should get some installation documentation with your SPOA kit (at least the Breeze 4.5" kit sold by NCO has an OK one) that will go into detail on the proper welding angles for mounting perches. If you are just buying/making parts separately, you can download NCO's Breeze installation documentation at <a target="_blank" href=http://www.northcoastoffroad.com/samuraitech.htm>http://www.northcoastoffroad.com/samuraitech.htm</a>.

Remember, you will probably need brake line extenders, driveshaft spacers, a Z-bar (or Breeze) draglink to help cut down on bumpsteer and longer shocks if you apply any appreciable-sized SPOA to your Zuk.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: SPOA?

I'll write down what I have now, and what I'm getting.
Currently I'm
SPUA
Missinglinks in the front; 1"total lift from them.
Custom rear upfront pack add another 2"
Long brake lines off a geo Tracker measure out about 22" for front

For rear I have
Stock CJ front springs
Missing links add an 1" to lift

I am trading aftermarket 4x4 my sj410 case for a spoa kit
I get extended rear brake lines
spoa pads
adjustable z-bar
2 1" drive shaft spacers

I will add the lower shock mounts for the front and rear probably next month. Of course the shocks as well. I am making my own upper shock mounts for the front and back.
The reason I ask this is because when I was installing my missinglinks I noticed that the axle dropped down when I released the spring packs. So when I reinstalled everything I put a jack under the diff. and jacked it up until the pinions were looking at each other, then tightened everything back down. I guess maybe it would have went back to the correct angle when I tightened everything anyway maybe?????
And yes I'm going spoa so I can run 33's. Also I would like to see a pic of someone spua with 23" of articulation. I don't think you can get alot more flexier suspension then I have as far as spua goes, and there is no way I have 23"'s of articulation.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2002, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: SPOA?

Also I think I remember now that it was when I installed the rear MLinks that we moved the pinion angle up.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-23-2002, 12:23 AM
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Re: SPOA?

shawn when you do the rear i would suggest you reinstall the rear end b4 you weld the perches.... snug the bolts good and tow it to the welder..... then loosen the bolts and turn the pinion to line up with the output of the tcase
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