Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .UpDatedPhotos - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2002, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .UpDatedPhotos

well got ms ps from 94 monday after talkin to him i made my own plate i cant belive people pay for a kit heres some photos have more tommorow battires where going ded so a coupl look bad but i will have more upo tommorow alond with ps pump which i chose to usea chevy pump beacuse i had it lying around.





<font color=red>And yes if you dont no it buy now i cant spell LOL!</font color=red>
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2002, 11:03 PM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

I have the celica box and a pump off a 86 toyota 4by p-up and have'nt torn into it yet but it does'nt look too bad. I'm not much for fabricating so i'll watch for your pictures. What do you have planned for the pitman arm?

Thanks,
Don

Early '88 Locked front & rear, lifted, Gr2 case, Winch & bumper. Now it's, I owe I owe so it's off to work I go...
post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2002, 11:13 PM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

Oh I see what you have planned for the pitman arm on the last picture.

Early '88 Locked front & rear, lifted, Gr2 case, Winch & bumper. Now it's, I owe I owe so it's off to work I go...
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2002, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

i will take better photo tommorow and alos show you another way for pitman arm complents of zook94 .. trust me its easy i will expalin it all tommmorow

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:00 AM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

You might want to carry a spare end, I tried the same thing and it broke pretty quickly. What a lot of guys do is press the ball joint out of the Toy pitman arm and then take a stock zuk one, cut off the end with the taper and round it off so you can weld it in where the ball joint went on the Toy arm.



This picture was taken after I did a trail repair. There were two threads left on one side of the break so I attched the jam nut, welded it to the end with the taper and then threaded the nut onto the other piece of thread. Got me home.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

DAMN !!!!you are way to hard on your stuff LOL!! was that made out of a stock steering bar? or something else ?
Im also going to hydro assit so there isnt going to be to much force on that anyways thanks for the heads up .
Yeah i seen the photos of how they where doing it on the por board mine came from RRO to fit there z-link im running . from the looks of it to me its a stock end cut off turnhed down but i may be wrong . But now that you said that i will be making me a spare[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]if it breaks i will re think

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:41 AM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

Yeah, stock draglink, cut off and threaded. It broke almost where the threads ended which is where the stress is concentrated. That piece sees a lot of force just from turning

Chris Villarreal
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:52 AM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

Why did you use the stock draglink? That this is small as hell!
I went up to a 1" solid cold rolled steel bar! I used the same thing on my other Zuk with the Z-bar that I made, it never broke and was strong!



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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

im going to use it beacuse look how many z-links rro makes and the use those stock ends. (I think) looks like it to me. and the fact that i can fine tune my steering .They garruent theres not to brake eeven on the harhest trail at least thats what glens web page says ,

They might not have been thinkin of Chris in mined when they said that seein how from the looks of his website he spends most of his weekends on trails i wish we had around here.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 09:38 AM
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Re: Toyota Powersteering IS easy photos .

I did it that way because my drag link used a standard rod end, M16 x 1.5 thread I think. No sense in making something bigger if your just going to turn it down on the lathe anyway to put the threads on it. The weak point will still be where the threads end. I also didn't have a means to make a taper. If you can make the taper why bother with this method, make a slug, weld it into the toy arm. The arm will bust before your slug does.

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