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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-17-2001, 05:06 PM
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drive cluch

I have just had a polaris clutch rebuilt about 200 miles ago. I now just started to not backshift untill around 2500 rpm. Does this mean that the center shaft is bad or to worn? I would think that the cluch should have been fine, my dealer said that there was a chance but that it should be fine. Thank you everyone for your help!

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 11:09 AM
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Re: drive cluch

If we are talking primary clutch on the motor, I have never seen a shaft worn enough to cause the need for replacement. The bushings go bad long before they hurt the shaft. Sounds like one of the bushings is binding or maybe a bad spring. If the bushings were replaced I might question if they were damaged during the install, if they are ok check weights and rollers. Inspect those items while on the machine. If you have a puller, pull the clutch and take the lid off and check these points. Just make sure you get it back on in the same location you took it off... does't hurt to mark lid and movable sheave with a magic marker. The lid and movable should slide freely up and down the shaft with no side movement; if excesive side movement it maybe binding and your rebuilder didn't replace the bushings. Inspect the weights and their rollers. They should turn freely but not be sloppy on their pivots.
If you are talking secondary clutch you driven spring is likely bad, replace making sure to note which whole in the helix it was in and preload it 1/3 of a turn.
Good luck.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 12:02 PM
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Re: drive cluch

Thanks for your help, it is definetely the drive clutch. Thats funny that you say that the shaft really can't be worn out. The first time i took it in when it went bad the fella took it apart and slid a new bushing on the shaft and said it was a little loose on the shaft but it shouldn't be a problem. Is he just giving me a line of [email protected]#t or have you heard of this also? Thanks for your help man! Peace

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2001, 01:52 PM
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Re: drive cluch

When that bushing is installed it fits tight enough in the lid that it crushs to a smaller size, without pushing it into the lid it will be loose on the shaft. Also the newer clutches have a black low friction coating on the shaft and if it is still there then the shaft isn't worn. If it is shiny silver then it may be worn but I have my doubts. The bushing is a lot softer than the steel shaft. Sounds like he may have had a clutch he wanted you to marry.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2001, 06:48 PM
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Re: drive cluch

when i took it in the guy noticed that the bushing had fallen out of the cover, i think that something happens and the bushing falls out and causes that aggresive wear on teh one weight and bushing. I don't know enough about clutches to know why this happens though? Any feedback is greatly appreciated

post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2001, 07:46 AM
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Re: drive cluch

If the bushing fell out of the cover it means one of two things, the c clip that hold it in fell out, or wasn't put back in after replacing the bushing.

Yes that is definitely enough to cause the clutch to self destruct. The forces generated by those weights are immense. I had read an article (whether it's right or not) in snow tech a couple months ago where they had stated 2000psi (or ft lbs) is created by the clutch weights.

Now if the clutch is off kilter those things are still going to try to do their job.

post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-26-2001, 11:16 AM
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Re: drive cluch

The cover bushing is supposed to be lock tighted in as well as the e clip. A lot of failures on cltuches is caused by plain old heat. If you get them too hot they have all kinds of failures most of which can be corrected in a rebuild. We install additional vents in the side of the belly pan to aid in cooling. If you want to get a feel for what a cool clutch will do, run with out the hood for a while. The cooling and ease of air flow into the carbs make them real "snorty".

post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-26-2001, 12:24 PM
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Re: drive cluch

So my brand new comet that's seized up (engaged) probably failed due to overheat?

post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-26-2001, 08:43 PM
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Re: drive cluch

The locktight that you mentioned i don't think was used. There was no evidence or residue of locktite. I will ask them if they have used it or not. Whe the clutch failed i was racing up and down a very steep and tall hill which would put a lot of stress on it and cause a great amount of heat. I would think that they are designed to take that kind of abuse. Thank you for your help!!!

post #10 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2001, 11:17 AM
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Re: drive cluch

Good possibility, especially if you're working it hard like breaking trail or hill climbing. Check them on the trail and you'll be surprised how hot they get. The system operates on friction and the more you're up and down on the rpm the more they make heat.

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