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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-28-2000, 02:11 PM
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trailing arm rear bolt?

I have a 92 indy 500 and I hit a culvert with the left ski any way the ski is bent the trailing arm is bent and the rear bolt hole is elongated now. I'm wondering what it looks like inside there the sled is not accessable to me at this time so I'm not sure. does the bolt screw into... what does it screw into? Am I screwed? I have a new trailing arm but I'm worried about that rear bolt. Does the bolt screw into the tunnel or the bellypan? What's inside there thats bent? I'm hoping that just the bolt is bent. It's snowing like crazy in minnesota today and i'm sitting at work bumming about my broken sled.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-28-2000, 06:32 PM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Face,
If it is like my 96, there is a threaded tube that is welded to a plate which in turn is riveted to a flange on the tunnel. This flange is actually an extension of the running board that is just forward of the point where the tunnel roll stops. The tube is welded to a plate and this plate is what is actually riveted to the flange. The tube/plate is under the foot rest and you should also be able to view it from the top just aft of the chaincase. I would check to see if the tube is actually bent and check to make sure the plate the tube is welded to is not loose and that there are no cracks in etc. . If it's loose all of the rivets and the tube/plate should be replaced. These are semi-tube rivets and you need a pneumatic hammer and rivet tool to replace them. If you have to go that far you might as well replace the tube/plate assembley. I expect the part is cheap since it's nothing fancy. You'll spend more on the labor.

If the tube/plate is not bent, there are no cracks or other damage and everything is still firmly attached you can probably get away with using a new bolt with the new trailing arm.



post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-28-2000, 07:05 PM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

if you do just change the bolt make sure to use a grade 5 bolt or else it will shear off

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-28-2000, 07:18 PM
Matt M38A1
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Face-
DanB is all over it. If the bolt hole is too damaged, or if you break the bolt off taking it apart then just buy the plate. I got one for my dad's 95 XLT, brand new, for $35. Then get 17 or 18 (count em) heavy (or aircracft grade) rivets from the dealer. You'll also need a bunch of aluminum wide head rivets for the body panels. Once you drill all the rivets, you can peel back the lower body panel, and get at the rest of the plate. Use vise grips, the big C-clamp kind, to squeeze the peices together so you get tight clmping by the rivets. I did all with a hand riveter, but it'll take everything you got to do those heavy duty ones. Hopefully you won't have to.

I have a 96 Ultra that took a shot by the previous owner. There is some rumpled metal where the feet go and underneath but everything is tight, and the pivot is only minutely twisted. I have yet to have a problem, so I imagine these things can take a good shot, be put back to gether and do just fine. I would suggest you get a factory bolt, they are fine thread and come with some locktight paste already on them. MAy help to fill in the odd shaped tube. You may have to heat that threaded tube up in ordwer to back out that bolt.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-29-2000, 11:51 AM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Thanks for the info guys! My buddy that has my sled in his garage said he looked at it and said nothing really looks bent or cracked so hopefully the new bolt will do just fine. Thanks again.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-29-2000, 04:50 PM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Matt,
You aren't kidding about those heavy-duty 3/16 steel pop-rivets. I broke 2 decent hand riveters working with those things. I found a solution though. Harbor Freight Tools sells a heavy duty manual riveter. It works and looks like a bolt cutter. It's too big to fit in some tighter spots but it's useable on the majority of the steel rivets on Gen 1 Indy's. It cost less than $20.

post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-29-2000, 06:48 PM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

WOW 20 bucks is good. I was hoping you weren't going to come back and say I screwed up and should have done it with a power one! We still haven't had a chance to shake it down yet. After ten rivets i was beat, and there were seven more to go!! Other than that it was easy enough, now if it just holds up. I'll remember the harbor freight thing if I do it again.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2001, 07:56 PM
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Matt,
There are places where you do need to use the semi-tube rivets. They are 1/4" in diameter and I've never found a "pop" rivet that large. The rivet-hammer can be purchased from a Polaris dealer for about 60 bucks but you do need an air-compressor. It works well with an inexpensive air-hammer too.

post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2001, 09:13 PM
 
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Yes you can buy 1/4" rivets from most fastener specialty places. Only thing is you have to buy a box of 100. Need heavy duty rivet gun to put them in though. We just finished straightening out a footrest on a 95 XLT. Get a big sledgehammer and a 2x4 to drive the rear tube back in place. Take comparison measurements between the good side and bad side to get it back to where it belongs.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 01-10-2001, 08:22 AM
Matt M38A1
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Re: trailing arm rear bolt?

Actually dan, in my case nothing was bent. The bolt was there, then five minutes later it was gone, broke off flush. So all I had to replace was the mounting plate for the trailing arm. I am familiar with those funky 1/4 inch rivets you speak of though.

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