Re: trailing arm rear bolt?
DanB is all over it. If the bolt hole is too damaged, or if you break the bolt off taking it apart then just buy the plate. I got one for my dad's 95 XLT, brand new, for $35. Then get 17 or 18 (count em) heavy (or aircracft grade) rivets from the dealer. You'll also need a bunch of aluminum wide head rivets for the body panels. Once you drill all the rivets, you can peel back the lower body panel, and get at the rest of the plate. Use vise grips, the big C-clamp kind, to squeeze the peices together so you get tight clmping by the rivets. I did all with a hand riveter, but it'll take everything you got to do those heavy duty ones. Hopefully you won't have to.
I have a 96 Ultra that took a shot by the previous owner. There is some rumpled metal where the feet go and underneath but everything is tight, and the pivot is only minutely twisted. I have yet to have a problem, so I imagine these things can take a good shot, be put back to gether and do just fine. I would suggest you get a factory bolt, they are fine thread and come with some locktight paste already on them. MAy help to fill in the odd shaped tube. You may have to heat that threaded tube up in ordwer to back out that bolt.