Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
RC-Nitro For discussion of off-road, gas (Nitro) powered, radio controlled model vehicles.

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-26-2000, 06:37 AM
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Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

I have a Maximum ST with an MIP tuned pipe installed, and have recently just switched from 10% nitro to 20% and WOW what a difference.Anyone know how much nitro one could safely run ?

<font color=blue>95 Pathfinder XE</font color=blue>
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-28-2000, 11:58 AM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

<font color=blue>Dont run more than 20%. Also, use car fuel, not plane fuel.</font color=blue>

post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-28-2000, 08:58 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

20% OK ....Yeah I have car fuel.I see that Trinity makes 35%nitro for cars.Thats probably pushing it!!hahahaha

<font color=blue>95 Pathfinder XE</font color=blue>
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2000, 04:55 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

biggrey, do you have a link to a bigger picture of that car, it lookes nice at one point, then it looks like a dump, which is it, i wrote that post then took a closer look and now i am not so sure it is crappy, you got a bigger pic?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2000, 05:25 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

Hey biggrey71, what did you do with that car man, drive it off a the grand canyon to see if the shocks worked as well as the nitro trucks? Doesn't look like they held up to good man. HaHa, just jokin around. What do you do with that car though, drive it in the woods, or in the dessert or what?

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2000, 09:50 AM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

<font color=blue>Uh.... you mean my truck? That is an outdated (bad to begin with) picture. Its now 3/4 ton with 36" Swampers. Heres another outdated picture when it was still 1/2 ton with only 33s</font color=blue>

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2000, 03:46 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

Oh i feel like a retard, i didn't realize it was a truck with the roof off like that, it looked like a jacked up car, like a hydro car or somthin but i was wrong. Sorry bout that.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2000, 04:33 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

i think anything higher than 20% will burn up the engine faster - that leads to dead engines, which is why some folks rate their engines at 2-3 gallons of use. You could probably go 20 gallons at 10% without a rebuild.

.undertow.
post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2000, 07:15 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

How hard is it to rebuild one of those tiny engines. Would it be better to just spend $100-$150 on a new one or not?

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2000, 09:15 PM
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Re: Nitro.....Yeah Baby!!!

<font color=blue>When you say rebuild, you mean new piston and sleeve, right? Thats easy. Unbolt the head, then the pull-start assembly if so equiped (be careful that the spring doesnt shoot out all over) then the backing plate. Now, try and loosen the sleeve out of the bore. Some people use pliers to loosen it and this works. I take use a flathead screwdriver to carefuly try to push the sleeve up from the bottom. Once the sleeve is out, take a pair of tweezers (or needlenose pliers if your carefull) to pull the conrod off the crank, then turn the whole thing over and the piston/rod will fall out the top. Use a safety pin or something along those lines to remove the small c-clip that hold the wrist pin in. Dont loose it or you're screwed. Now look at the new piston and sleeve. The piston goes in the sleeve a certain way. Turn the piston in the sleeve until all the ports line up then mark the piston at the notch on the top of the sleeve. Put the conrod, the wrist pin, and the piston back together and use some after-run oil on them. Put the piston back in and line up the mark you made on it with the pin on the top of the block, now put the conrod back on the crank (more after-run oil here too). Hold the motor upside-down (this makes it easier to line up the piston and sleeve) and insert the sleeve into the block. Try to line up the notch and the pin as closely as you can before putting the sleeve in to far because its hard to turn once its in the block. After you get the sleve down all the way, bolt the head back on in a criss-cross pattern, same with the backingplate. Now you have to treat it like it was new and run it very rich the first 8 tanks or so. It should run as good as ever afterwards</font color=blue>

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