new plate chassis for RC10GT - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2000, 09:00 PM
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new plate chassis for RC10GT

<font color=blue>Has anyone converted the chassis on a kit GT to the new plate one on the RTRs and Factory Team Edition? I E-Mailed Associated 2 MONTHS AGO and they told me that their would be directions on how to do this on thier page (still not updated [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img] ). I stripped two spur gears last year, once in qualifiers, then in a race and I got a DNF and i don't want this to happen again.

One of my freinds got one for Christmas and i compared it to mine. From what i saw, i will need the plate, front brace standoffs, motor mount (non-pull start) and motor mount screws (I might use countersunk T3 rear arm mount screws- I have extras), and the spacer under the trans where the old style mount went. Has anyone done this? I would apreciate it if someone with a GT RTR could post the part #'s to the parts listed

thanks

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-20-2000, 05:57 PM
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Re: new plate chassis for RC10GT

Hey Bigrey quick question for you..

I'm new to this gas scene but had ran electrics for years and years. I recently got an Rc10 GT, put er all together and fired er up. No probs getting it started the first time. When I tried to dial the engine all in though I couldn;t get it re-started. I have a pull start (I think its the OS version). I followed all the directions in the manual about how to reset all the settings for the engine, even tried a new glow-plug but just can't get the thing to fire up... ANy suggestions??

Thanks

Buzz

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] <font color=red> Bad Boyz Drive Bad Ass Toyz </font color=red>
post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-20-2000, 07:41 PM
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Re: new plate chassis for RC10GT

<font color=blue>OK if it's an OS, it'll say so on the side (OS MAX, OS CV). If it is silver, then it is the older CZ (you can still get parts for these), if it's black it's a CV (the newer one, i have one in my GT). Set the low end needle screw (the one on the throttle arm) flush with the tube the screw is in. Then close the top end needle and open it 2 1/2 turns (but don't tighten it, they strip easy). Then set the idle so it's about 3mm open. This should be right in the ballpark. Check the fuel tubing (or replace it if it's the cheesey thin kind) because it could be clogged. Did you charge the glow igniter? If that's dead, you could have everything set perfect and it won't start. How old is the motor? If it's old, or was ran hot for long periods, it has no compresion and won't start. Take the plug out and slowly turn the crank a few times, it should have a little resistance at the top of the stroke, if not, you need a new piston and sleeve. Also, get a MIP temp guage. It makes it much easier to to tune the motor when you know if it gets too hot (above 230f or so), heat is what kills these motors. If this doesn't work, then take it to the hobby shop and have them look at it
good luck</font color=blue>

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2000, 04:00 AM
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Re: new plate chassis for RC10GT

Thanks Biggrey..

The engine is pretty much brand new, ran for only a few minutes, then I didn't touch it again for 2 months and now can't get er to fire.. I did change the glowplug and no luck. I'll take your recs and give it a try when I get back to the states.

Thanks again for your help..

Buzz

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] <font color=red> Bad Boyz Drive Bad Ass Toyz </font color=red>
post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2000, 11:09 AM
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Re: new plate chassis for RC10GT

<font color=blue>If it's new, than run it with the top needle open 3 turns for 4 or 5 tanks to break in the piston & sleeve, this way it'll last longer</font color=blue>

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