Solid Axle Toy Setup - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Prerunner Cars & Trucks Discussion about Off-Road Prerunner Cars & Trucks 2 or 4-Wheeldrive

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-25-2002, 03:33 PM
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Solid Axle Toy Setup

I currently own a 1985 toyota solid axle truck set up for rock crawling but it's time for a change. I am hoping to change it into more of a prerunner type vehicle without losing its street-ability or too much of its rockcrawling functionality. Does anyone else have any experience (or ideas) involving solid axle prerunners?

As cost is a BIG factor, most of my plans are rather modest. All mods will be done by me rather than an expensive fab shop. My initial plans involve slightly softening the front spring packs by replacing several of the lower lifted leaves with those from the old rear spring packs. In the rear I will replace the springs with 2wd Mazda spring packs. I also want to build new front shock hoops (using the Ford F250 brackets?) to take advantage of the new front spring packs. The mounts will include a brace running over the engine to reduce the stress placed on the frame. I am still trying to determine the best rear shock configuration. One possible idea is to angle both shocks behind the axle and build a new crossmember between frame rails for the upper mount (as pictured in the Downey 2wd rear shock travel kit). As cost is the deciding factor, what reasonably inexpensive shocks should I consider (no bypasses, remote reservoirs, etc)? Deutchtechs(sp) and Bilstien 5100s seem to be the best options.

With the new rear spring pack, traction bars will be required to eliminate wheel hop. I can see two options for the rear: either a shackle type bar like that pictured on Jay Kopycinski's 4WD Web Page(http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota) or a simpler setup with two heim-jointed bars attached to rigid mounts on the axle and frame. Should I consider putting some type of traction bar on the front axle? Is a steering stabilizer worthwhile?

I also need to decide how much lift to build into the new front packs. Does anyone else have experience with this sort of setup? How much distance should I have between my front axle and the frame? Due to cost considerations, I will be using some type of aftermarket poly bumpstop rather than those cool air bumpstops. Should I gusset my front axle to prevent it from bending?

Finally I will try to remove weight from my truck in any way possible and attempt to shift the weight bias rearwards by trimming my current beefy bumpers and relocating stuff to the end of the bed. Does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, or experience with a similar project? Any ideas (and especially pictures) would be appreciated.

PS: Sorry about the length of the post, I get way too excited thinking about this stuff.


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-25-2002, 06:00 PM
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

First off don't let anyone tell you a SFA won't work because it will.. Now, if your are trying to make this a rock crawling/high speed dez truck your at two ends of the spectrum.. Slow speed rock crawling will require soft suspension to conform to the rocks while high speed dezert stuff requires a stiff suspension to prevent the vehicle from bottoming out when it comes back down to earth and a fairly low center of gravity.. My advice is to pick one sport and build the best you can for it..
Call the spring shops to figure what they set their off-road packs to like Deaver Springs in Santa Ana 714-542-3703.. Don't know which stock stuff will do but look for something heavy in the length you want or go longer for more travel.. Shocks, the 5100 is the best you can get for the price.. Get as long as you can for the front and rear because you want the most travel.. Flex the rig up to max and then place your upper mounts.. Have fun compressing those 5100's.. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] Try to get a 70-30 on suspension travel 30 up 70 droop.. Sounds backwards but you want the suspension to follow the terrain when going high speeds..
Traction bars are to patch a poorly designed suspension.. They are for 3 and 4 link type suspensions or DisKo tRucKs.. If the springs are stiff enough then no worries.. They will also kill your ground clearance for the crawling.. Yes you will need steering stabilizers with larger than stock tires x2 for 33" and above..
The poly snubbers are just fine.. Only endless accounts get the cool air bumps.. Plus the $480 those things cost could go to some really comfy suspension seats or 4 pt harness and a CAGE!!!! Absadamnlutly gusset the crapola out of the axle unless you have quite a few in your back yard and like swapping them ot.. Don't use the aftermarket gussets, sounds like your a good enough metal worker to fab one yourself..
Think about the stuff that can be moved to the rear.. Junk all your metal in favor of fiber but i know its expensive but those are the shakes in this biz.. Plus this will give you room for the bigger meats.. Or don't and catch a big whoop and the tires will take care of your fenders once and for all when you land.. May need a few spare tires for this.. Next would be battery, radiator, and fuel.. Move those to the middle and back of the bed.. Use an electric fan for the rad.. A lot of the pre run style mount their spares on the very end past the tailgate to help in the balancing act too...
Look at the race pages of all the sites to see some ideas.. Look for the class 7 and 7s for what your looking for.. Offroad mag also is featuring 7, 7S, trophy, pre run style truck you can get hints from..
If your excited about thinking this stuff just think when your driving it..

WeaZle out....


post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2002, 09:56 PM
cleartoy
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

I am currently offering an 85 Toyota xtracab 4x4 for sale.

Front suspension: National 5" lift springs with dual FOX 2.0 (10s) and All Pro 1" forward axle relocate plates.

Rear suspension: National 62" springs under axle with SAW 2.5s (14s).

Ivan glass front and rear(not hood though).

Rear bump\dual tire carrier, Optima moved behind the cab, fuel tank(18 gallon) moved to rear for weight distribution.

33s on 10s. 456 gears, front spool, rear V6 3rd.

Header, 2.25" exhaust, stage 2 cam. Just took off the dual Weber side drafts for smog, and put on a CAT.

Does really well in the desert. Especially in the sand!

Let me know if you need more ideas, or are interested in buying my truck. Oh, and heres a pic.

is your 85 EFI? Std or xtracab?



-cleartoy
85 xtracab 4x4(FOR SALE)
94 std cab 2wd
99 YZ250
Got sand?


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2002, 04:41 PM
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

My truck is a standard cab, shortbed, carbed '85. Do you have any idea what spring or shock rates you are running?

post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:09 AM
cleartoy
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

Front FOXs are 60/40 valving. Dont know about the springs. I removed one leaf from the pack cuz they were too stiff.

Rear SAWS are valved as delivered from SAW. Dont know rear rate either, but had to remove 2 leaves.

-cleartoy
85 xtracab 4x4(FOR SALE)
94 std cab 2wd
99 YZ250
Got sand?


post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 08:37 PM
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

What did you do with your steering? My stock draglink is looking pretty stressed right now and I'm not sure it will survive too much high speed abuse. I can see several affordable options ($600 crossover steering is not possible right now). I can cut/weld/brace the stock arm, I can bend some DOM tubing and weld in the stock ends, or I can relocate the ball on the "J" steering arm to the top of the arm and build a new link. I intend to install some better limiting straps soon but I'm not sure my arm will survive my goal of 10-11" vertical travel (I have 8" now).
post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2002, 10:37 PM
cleartoy
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Re: Solid Axle Toy Setup

I have flipped the ball to the top of the steering arm. I have the Pro Comp dropped drag link. After i installed the All Pro axle relocation plates to move the axle forward 1"(for tire clearance and weight distribution) i had to shorten the drag link. Im also not running a sway bar.

I cut off the bracket for the torqe rod, cuz i jumped and the bracket hit the header. Ive since replaced the header due to cracks. Only side affects are torque steer while braking.

My front only has 8 right now(stock shackles) with 3" longer shackles, i might achieve 9.5-10. To get more than that, you will need longer springs with custom mounts...say 4-5" longer springs to the rear with custom shackles, and you should be good for 12".

The rear is easy. Im pullin 16" travel out of the 62" springs now, but could achieve more with longer shackles and putting the u bolt plates on the bottom of the axle.

-cleartoy
85 xtracab 4x4(FOR SALE)
94 std cab 2wd
99 YZ250
Got sand?


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