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Webber install, questions.

476 views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  Mike86CJ7 
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#1 ·
I have somewhat successfully installed a Webber carb on my '84 CJ7. It also has the Nutter bypass and the TR TFI. When it is warmed up it runs better than it ever has, cold it is a mess to get started. I assume I have some adjusting to do. When cold I have to crank it for a pretty good while finally it will sputter and run real rough, won't idle, I have to continue to pump the gas to keep it running. Here are a couple of questions.

1) On the electric choke I connected the old wire from the Carter. Can I test for voltage at some point so that I can tell if it is doing whatever it is supposed to do?

2) I connected the distributor vacuum to the distributor advance port on the new Webber. However, the instructions mention the '83-'88 Jeeps using manifold vacuum (whatever the h@!! that is). Should I re-route the distrubutor vacuum?

3) There is a fitting that comes out of the manifold just under the carb on the driver's side that runs to the big round thing the brake master cylinder is bolted to. This fitting has a port in it that looks suspiciously like a vacuum fitting. I have it capped now, but does it need to go someplace?

4) I don't have the smallest tube connected to the evap. canister yet, is this causing a problem?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Sharps (nimrod mechanic)
 
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#2 ·
Glad to see another Texan on board. Welcome!
If you do a search you can find several ideas on how to install the weber the best.
As for starting, what works best is to
A. turn on the ignition so the heating element will start to heat the intake manifold.
B. Pump the gas twice then crank. Do not pump the gas while cranking.
C. repeat till she starts.

Also, you may want to check and see if your heating element on the intake is still getting current. It has a single red wire that drops out of the intake manifold under the carb. It is supposed to come on when the ingnition is on and turn off once it reaches 150 degrees. I run mine through a 20 amp switch and turn it on and off manually.
Mine used to be pain in the arse to start. Now it will crank on the first or second try easily.

Just read your profile...Do you shoot on your own or participate in the SASS/cowboy shooting? I've always thought of shooting with the Travis County Regulators.
 
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#3 ·
Well here's another Texan w/ the identical set-up on my '83. Check your choke plate. There is some adjustment in it. Make sure that it is fully closed when you set it. If I rember correctly, you'll need to losen the screws holding on the choke housing and rotate it make sure its completely closed when its set and then recheck it opens completely when its warmed up. It may take some trial and error. Instead of using the old Carter choke wire, I just ran a wire from my fuse block to a toogle switch on the dash. Its nice to turn off the choke and leave the key switched on to work on run the radio and not have the choke warmed up & opened up completely when its time to restart the engine on cold days. For your vaccum ports, I just have one for the distributor and the bottom manifold port is connected to the brake booster. Also make sure you have a good seal between the adaptor plates. I spent a week trying to find out why mine would start and then die. The plates become loose and caused a really bad leak. If you still can't make it run, contact a British car shop. They'll be a big help in fixing Webers. I used to work for one up in Arlington, used to see alot of Webers there, they'll also stock the rebuild kits if you need one down the road. Hayne's also has a weber manual w/ alot of good info. Better than the stuff that comes w/ the carb when you bought it. Hope this helps.
 
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#4 ·
Drury, I had forgotten about the manifold heater. It does work, I checked the voltage several weeks ago. I'll piddle with the choke plate thing and see if it will work better.

I actually don't shoot the cowboy action stuff, I have been shooting BPCR silhouettes at Ft. Chadbourne. I haven't had time to shoot there in several months. Matter of fact, I was in a wheat field in my CJ7 last night looking at some cattle when this fat coyote started to trot off across it. I had my Shiloh 40-70ss with me and I torched one off at him. I missed a smidge but he did relocate. Rapidly.

Blacklab, do you think the distributor advance needs that manifold vacuum or is the one on the carb enough to do whatever it does? The whole thing is just a mystery to me. I am going to end up learning how to be a mechanic just to keep up my jeep. Does anybody publish a good book on everything that needs done to a jeep? Maybe the Big Jeep Book? Goodness knows I need the help.

Sharps
 
#5 ·
Probably one of the most entertaining and knowlegde filled books I own on Jeeps is "The Jeep Bible" by the late Granville King. Great book, easy to follow directions and a real down-to-earth style that breaks the monotony of a typical Chiltons or Haynes manual.
 
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