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Gearing for hwy speed

616 views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  RootMoose 
#1 ·
Ive tried and tried to answer my question on my own but im having no luck. Im building my SJ410 to be a daily driver thats capable to do interstate speeds. Im going to run a 1.6 16v with efi and hopefully a supercharger (if they still make them). Im gonna run a 88.5+ 5spd and am probably gonna keep the SJ410 tcase since its geared lower. Plannin on runnin 30x9.50's. Dont laugh but i would like to make this thing be able to have some low end grunt but still cruise around 85mph (Did i say that im also buildin this thing into a "sleeper"). What gear would you recommend.

Im also putting 29's on my '90 samurai. I believe that the 4.16 t-case will provide it plenty of power to turn them. If somebody has another suggestion as to what gear to use with the 29's please let me know.

Thanks for any and all help. I hope this is the last time i have to bother ya'll about the gearing thing.



Will
"It aint the wand its the magician"
"Keep the shiny side up"
Tread lightly
 
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#2 ·
well zukinut do you want to run bigger tires cause you do know you could just gear it right(especially that 16v'er!) and pull marvelously! It seems with the power of the 16v'er that it would pull the 30's no prob! But I have heard it time and time again(just quotin what I've heard!),"IT is all in the gears!"

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs
 
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#3 ·
I run 462's,I can get 75-80 on the hwy with a stock t-case(373).seems to work ok.anyway over 75 miles an hour in a sami is definatly out in my book,too unsafe and just plain dumb.....good luck....

88 Sam I AM(AKA-THROTTLE MONGER)- 1.3+.030,cam,462gears,locked,5in Calmini,2"body
31-10.50's.Yankee-offroad-Hood latches,Bumpers,Rails and armour,Tracker seats.................ECT.....
 
#4 ·
I would try just the T-Case first and see where you are at. With the 30's, I think the 4.57 Yukons would be too much, and the 5.38's are way out of the question. The stock gears are 3.73's, and there isn't anything readily available between the 3.73 and 4.57 ratios. I think you will be surprised with the 16v if it is a strong motor. I was pushing mine to the max yesterday on the interstate, and I have a very strong new 1.3, and with the 4.16 T-case, 3.73 R&P's, and 33x12.5 tires, I was able to hit 73 mph on the flat at about 4700 rpm in fourth gear. I plan to go to the 4.57's to get my fifth gear back in the near future.

TGT - NCO

www.northcoastoffroad.com
 
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#5 ·
I am not sure now but I thought petroworks sells a 4.10 or somewhere around that R&P cause I know they do sell a pretty wide range of R&P's although they are to pricy for me!

http://www.petroworks.com

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs
 
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#7 ·
With 29's and a 1.6 16v you should be just fine on the highway. I ran 31's with stock gearing with a built 1.3 and did ok. Let me know what you come up with on that supercharged 1.6 16v, I was thinking of that very same thing but haven't checked into it yet.

Go Big! If not in your ride, in your heart!
 
#8 ·
I havent searched on the supercharger yet. Im sure somebody makes one. I know a guy that owns a supercharger company up in Indiana. My dad redid a house for the guys brother here in TN. He was a real nice guy. I need to give him a call and see what he can do for me. Ill let yall know sumthin as soon as i find sumthin out.



Will
"It aint the wand its the magician"
"Keep the shiny side up"
Tread lightly
 
#9 ·
Don\'t touch the gearing...

What year SJ-410?

If you have not touched the axles or the transfer case yet then I would not touch them at all.

You already have 4.10:1 gears in the axles and your stock high range gearing is the same as a GRSI/Rockcrawler. I'd leave the gearing alone. Hell, with the 16V you should be able to run 33s no problem...

c.
 
#10 ·
Re: Don\'t touch the gearing...

One other thing: why bother with a Samurai transmission? For the cost of the engine adapter kit you can use the slightly larger 2wd TracKick transmission and not have to mess with adapters.

On a SJ-410 you'll have to massage the tranny tunnel a bit but by the sounds of the project that you have in mind that should be trivial for you to do.

HTH

c.
 
#11 ·
your sami should be fine with the 29's as long as your engine is strong. i can run 75-80 all day with my setup after i went with the 88.5 tranny & it's lower 5th gear. good luck!

cueball
88 hd-top,1.3with weber, calmini cam,headers & 2" exhaust, jacobs ignition, 3" national spua , 4.16 tc gears, 88.5 5th gear,29x10.50 swamper tsl sx's
 
#12 ·
Are you doing a SPOA on it? or any suspension because if you are you would want to dump the smaller narrow SJ410 axles and put some Samurai ones under it, or if you want to leave it stock height but want beefier axles find some 1985 Samurai ones they will bolt right up to your SJ410 with the inbound mounts and they come stock with 3.91 and all the aftermarket Samurai stuff fits them.

Dedicated to the restoration and care of the North American Rhino
 
#14 ·
Im gonna stick the SJ410 body on an 88.5+ frame.That way i have the 5spd i want plus i get the better/wider axles. Plus i wont have to reweld motor mounts etc. to get the 16v to fit in the SJ frame.



Will
"It aint the wand its the magician"
"Keep the shiny side up"
Tread lightly
 
#16 ·
TracKick tranny gearing...

...is the same as a Samurai 5 speed as far as the gear ratios go. The Sam gets away with higher axle gearing because high range in the Sam t-case is 1.409:1 instead of the TracKick's 1:1. (SJ-410 t-case high range is something like 1.51:1)

Apparently, the 4 door 2wd TracKick 5th gears are 0.795:1 while the 2 door 2wd TracKick 5th gears are 0.865:1 although I still have to confirm this. Pissing content difference but depending on what you are trying to build it can make a difference to your highway gearing. The turbo diesel guys should be paying atention to this...a diesel should be running way low RPM on the highway to make installing a TD worth the effort mileagewise.

The big thing about the TracKick tranny (at least to me) is that the gear faces are larger as are most of the bearings and synchros. They still have the weak tailshaft bearing seal problem that all Suzuki RWD trannies seem to have but that is a "deal with it and get over it" kind of problem.

To deal with "it": replace the seal often and don't let your t-case bounce around too much with a broken mount as this kills the seal. Most of the transmission failures that I've known/seen are due to bad maintenance and oil starvation because of a weak rear seal and off-road angles making the oil leak out the back. If your tranny tail housing is covered in oily "gunge", clean the housing and replace the seal. That way you can see when it happens again.

In zukinut's case, it might be a good idea to get the intermediate shaft balanced while you have the whole thing apart - the seal will last longer as well because of this. If you do change your mind and decide to go the TracKick tranny route you need to get the intermediate shaft shortened for use with the slightly longer tranny. This means it will get balanced at the same time anyway (if you take it to someone that knows what they are doing at least - advised).

Rotating machinery is not the place to go cheap in my not so humble opinion. Getting stuck by yourself with a broken drivetrain a couple hundred kilometers off the nearest road really sucks...and it can be avoided.

Just to be clear, I am not panning the Samurai transmission - there is nothing wrong with the Sam tranny as long as it is maintainted properly. I prefer the TracKick case because it has bigger internals and you don't need an engine adapter. I like the TracKick t-case as well - now that I've figured out how to eliminate the slip yoke.

HTH

Sorry for the long post

YMMV, IMO, FWIW, etc., etc. :)

c.
--
http://root.moose.ca/~chris
 
G
#18 ·
Re: TracKick tranny gearing...

SUPERCHARGER.

We had a supercharger (equivelent to a T04) bolted to a '99 Nissan Fontier that we unbolted and put on a '91 Nissan TRX.

So basically, if you can fabricate the brackets, pulleys and plumbing you should be able to bolt up just about any sort of supercharger to your 1.6 16V so long as it was designed for a Jap engine. I was told that was one of the specs my friends had to make certain of.

I could be wrong and I will make a few calls. If I am wrong I will post back with the accurate info, but I'm pretty sure I've got it right.

Oh, you will also need to drop your compression. You can either do a head spacer or you can do it in the pistons. You'd also want to make sure that you go to someone like "Chip Torque" and get your computer re-tuned on a dyno and that your engine is all honky dory. You don't wanna spend all that money doing the mod and blow something up.

'85 SuziSkip
Slowly building a beast.

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