Off Roading Forums banner

Axles on a CJ 44 or 9 inch

1K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  **DONOTDELETE** 
G
#1 ·
Ok I know this has been discussed to death before, but here it goes again. I spun a hub on AMC 20 today and don't really want to spend any $ to fix it. (I know I probably should have thought of this before but hind sight is 20/20) I have a SOA with 2.5 lift springs, so rather than spending the cash for a 1 piece axle kit I figured I'd spend a little more and upgrade while I'm at it. I don't really mind going a little wider with the axles. I figured I'd probably get a Dana 44 for the front (maybe a wagoneer). But the back is where I can't decide. I'm between a Ford 9 inch and a Dana 44. I'd heard about the 9 inch from a 2wd ford that was just a little wider than stock which sounds good to me but I've also heard bad stuff about driveline angles. I'm sorry got rambling but I would appreciate any input. I would guess I'll probably be running 36s in the future.
-David
I guess its probably important that I'm running a pretty stock I-6 no plans to do a major performance upgrade in the near future.
 
G
#2 ·
You might want to check out my post on the FSJ Model 20. Heavier tubes, one piece axles, and you can use your CJ 20 internals (the internals are bigger than a 44, about the same size as a 9"). Thats the way I'm going.

Brad
ORC Land Use Section Editor
http://www.off-road.com/land
Vice-Pres. Rock Garden 4 Wheelers, Farmington, NM
 
#3 ·
The AMC 20 differential has an 8.875" ring gear and is only marginally weaker than the Ford 9" while the Dana 44 differentioal has an 8.5" ring gear (still plenty strong).

The Ford 9" has the largest selection of ratios available (3.00:1 to 6.50:1). It also has a removable carrier which makes it much easier to set up. The tubes will have to be shortened considerably to get a CJ width assembly. The F100/150 axles are only 29 spline in stock form but I've never twisted one off.

As has been pointed out before, about the only weak link for the AMC 20 are the relatively thin walled tubes. Commonly available ratios are from 2.73:1 to 4.56:1. Retube this one and you have an excellent axle.

The Dana 44 has the smallest gearset of the three but, like I said, is still plenty strong. Common ratios are from 3.07:1 to 5.38:1

Just about anyway you approach it, you're going to have to do surgery to come up with a suitable replacement. Good luck.

Rockcrusher
 
G
#4 ·
look for a mid to late 70's 2wd ford pickup. some of these (f100's i think) had a rear that measures 61" from wheel mountin flange (wmf) to wmf. this is the same width as the dana44 front from a wagoneer or a narrow track cherokee. the ford 9" (rear) is a stronger axle than both the dana44 or the amc20. if you plan to do the swap get a front from a late 70's wagoneer and the rear from the ford. you'll need to get the hubs and rotors of the wag dana44 redrilled to a 5on5 1/2 wheel pattern to match the rear though.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/
 
G
#5 ·
I am running a D44 rear now, and feel that it is marginal for what I have plans for. I also feel a 9 inch wouldn't be a big strength improvement. I am planing on going to go with a homebuilt, Scout D44 with a D60 centersection, depending on how much more it is going to cost over fullwidth 8 lug 1 ton hardware. that is after I price out the front D60.

Thanks, Ray

 
#6 ·
one cool thing about the 9 inch, is they are easier to set up they have screw adjusters instead of carrier bearing shims If ive understood my racecar buddies well enough, also its the best for available gear ratios and traction devices.

the late 70s truck versions are usually the large bearing from what Ive seen.

if your real lucky you might find the lincoln MarkV rear 9 inch, its narrow and its diskbrake already. thats a pretty sweet setup.



OzarkJeep

"They throw the best damn parties at the Rim of Hell"
 
G
#7 ·
I did the lincon Mark V disk brake equiped 9" swap, and a 44 front, and every once in awhile I look back and say "I shoulda gotten the one piece axles" but then when I stand on it (warm 304 and 36's) in the mud, I'm thankfull I didn't.

If you go 9", remember, it has an extra pinion bearing, which adds strength, go 31 spline axle shafts, and you'll be set. I'd take a 9" over a 44 anyday, but if the price was right... I might be swayed elsewise. As it was I pratically stole my lincon rear, so...

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire
 
#8 ·
I have been happy with the Scout axles I'm running in my CJ. Plenty strong and I love the stance my jeep has, wider but not too much. You can score a good deal on the axles if you shop around. I'm running Detroits front and rear with 409s and 35s. With a Ford T-18 and Dana 300 with twin sticks I have a pretty good crawl ratio. I shelled 2 30s, spun the axle on the 20 and broke a Moser axle (my fault). I have no plans to change anything untill I break something, so far, so good! Good Luck.

 
G
#9 ·
Hey I appreciate all the replies it has been very helpful. What other costs can I expect to incur besides the cost of the axles? I guess I'll probably need new driveshafts? Would the 9 inch be able to work with the height I'm running (SOA on 2.5 springs)? I don't have a CV driveshaft now, but would a 9 inch and CV work (no vibes though, x-fer case dropped though, I'd kind of like to get rid of that). Also what is the major work needed for the front (steering I guess). Thanks I'm just trying to get some type of strategy before I dive in, does any one have a ball park on how much a similar swap cost them?
-David

 
#10 ·
I think the 9" lower pinion might even give more length on teh driveshaft and help the vibration, I passed upa lincoln MarkV last year for $100 ( disk brakes and all) im still kicking myself, I had read that the low pinion causes problems so I didnt even look into it, turns out it works well!

well in the front, youve got to outboard the spring mounts or shorten the axle, I went the OB spring mounts its the cheaper way to go In my opinion. and I like the added axle width, Big V8+CJ5+me=certain carnage

its just flat 1/4 inch stock, in varying widths, Im going SOA, but not Shackle reversal, so I just reused all of my factory spring hangers, reinforced the frontsimilar to the slickroack hangers.

the rear, move the perches where you want them, I also ground of all of the shock mount that will most likely be the last things I put back on.

Im going unltra Low buck knuckle top custom steering, its in teh works stage right now, basically modeled after H8mondays setup, but with home fabbed arms on the knuckles.


Ive got a 75 wag front, and an 81 wag rear end.

im a cheap ass, tight wad, I have a whopping $40 worth of 1/4 inch plate and bushings and shackle parts invested so far, I got the axles Free, and I need gears bearings and brakes to finish them.

I predict the steering will come in under $100 ends and all, and thats substantially cheaper than replaceing the factory parts.

My whole rig will be 6 lug, so I didnt incur the usual cost of converting the front.

man I need a website.




OzarkJeep

"They throw the best damn parties at the Rim of Hell"
 
#11 ·
One thing to consider is what you have invested in your stock axles, if it's nothing (no limited slips, lockers, gears, brake kits) then you might want to shy away from the 20, some people weld their tubes to the housing, truss the hell outa it, and get one peices and don't have any problems. Personally I think the d44 swap is a good idea because you can do it if you are lucky for the price of a 1 peice kit. You might want to consider the 9", though I've never heard anything good or bad about it. Another thought for the 44 is that you can move traction devices around, say you have a lockright in the rear, then you get a detroit for the rear, well you can still use the lockright up front. If cost is prohibitive go with what ever works with you pennies. As for strength I think either will be alright and if you ever start breaking stuff alot you could always go to a full floating kit in the rear and hd axles up fornt and also truss the housing. I think trussing is something everybody shold do, It will probably cost you about $20 in steel, just make it to your liking, and if you do it right you can shave the pumpkin a little and not loose any ground clearance and have a really beefed housing.
Barrel Roll

'95 YJ Totaled!

Currently looking for a 16 year old jeep chick with a jeep
 
G
#12 ·
With the same springs, in the same location, I had to lenghten the rear driveshaft. The 9" pinion is a considerably shorter distance from the axle tube than the AMC 20. After putting weight and measuring it, it was a full 2" longer, and even alittle less angle. I have 4" springs (sagged some) with no TC drop on a CJ-5 with no vibes.

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire
 
#13 ·
I went the 9" route and used one from an Early Bronco. I kept the 28 spline axles--I can't upgrade everything at once! The cool thing about the Early Bronco 9" is that the spring perches are right above where I welded on the new ones. (my CJ is a narrow track) I kept mine spring-under, but if I ever go SOA the perches are all set. Since the EB has the SOA already, the pinion angle should be pretty much set, although the Broncos have a CV joint on the driveshaft out of the t-case. The axle is a few inches wider than the narrow track 20.

Ken

 
G
#14 ·
I'd go 44s front and rear, 60s if possible. Main reasons being that you could upgrade one axle and put the old traction device in the other one... Also, parts for a 44 are in my opinion, more plentiful than for 9's. Face it, the Junkyard rapists go after the 9"s first for their Wanna-Be "race cars."

just my 2 cents...

mike

Give me Jeep or Give me Death!!!

(Will trade functioning organs for CJ-7 or flatfender)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top