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Mud Racing - Monster Trucks Discussion of closed course mud racing and Monster Trucks, all aspects.

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 11:15 AM
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3 & 4 LINK

Possibly will be building a pro-stocker in the near future with a 3 or 4 link suspension in the rear. The vast majority of the current guys running 4 links run what I would call a street/strip set-up. In saying this I mean that it is the same set up you would see at the dragstrip. Drop brackets are used to achieve the desired clearance and geometry. I'm interested in fabricating my own 3 or 4 link rear suspension; the custom ones we see on a lot of the trail vehicles and rock climbers. Are there any opinions on which might be the better setup? Has anybody had experience one or both types I am trying to describe? THANKS in advance!!
MUD DUCK

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2001, 07:31 AM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

From what i have seen, mostly 4 links are used in the rear and a 3 link set up in the front. Most of the "rail" machines run the 4 link like you are desribing that you would see on a street car. They are very effective. Are you thinking about running longer links?

post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2001, 09:20 AM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

It was just a thought that had crossed my mind. I think it would be neat to build my own 4-link with the longer links if it was effective. I didn't want to waste the time and effort if the longer links will not work as well as the shorter strip type links.Are there any other rear suspension setups being used successfully in any class?

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2001, 02:57 PM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

Usually ladder bar suspensions are run with longer bars in order to move the instant center further forward. I've not seen any "pro" cars that run longer than the norm 4 link bars. but that doesn't mean there are not any that do. If i were to build a 4 link setup i would use the shorter bars. I don't know if the single bars could hold up to a big horsepower motor if they were say 4 feet long. that is a lot of leverage on a single bar. but don't give up based on what i have said, Everything has room for improvement. Maybe we can get some more feed back from others. TEX, any idea's?

post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-15-2001, 11:18 AM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

<font color=purple>No specific ideas from me, though I too would like to build a Pro Stocker one of these days. I'm thinking that the dragstrip guys know a thing or two about forward propulsion & launching, so if it were me I'd try to learn more from them than from the big-flex trail guys.</font color=purple>

TEX

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-16-2001, 08:01 PM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

A parallel 4 link works well on smooth asphalt, if the suspension cyles evenly (both sides at the same time). If you try to articulate it (one wheel up, one wheel down) it will bind. A big reason for the high dollar rod ends is that they live through this torture. The big braces that people put on axlehousings is to keep the housing from twisting when the links bind. If you need the suspension to move through a wide range of motion, a wishbone, a three link or a triangulated 4 link is what you want

post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-17-2001, 01:28 PM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

We all know how rough some of the tracks can get. Where could I find literature or info on how the 3-link or triangulated 4-link work and are constructed?
MUD DUCK

post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2001, 10:18 PM
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Re: 3 & 4 LINK

This is a great page telling you tons of stuff about 4-link. It deals with more drag style stuff but 4x4 builders can use it too http://srd.yahoo.com/goo/4-link Susp...-_bar_tips.htm There is also this one http://www.customclassic.com/kustomkorner/techtip6.htm

And last but not least there is the whole thing on the 4-link suspensions on Monster Trucks on Truck World.com http://truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks...ter-tech1.html

I am building a Pull Truck (Truck&Tractor Pulling) right now. Anyway, my rear suspension is 2ton leaf springs because I don't want it to move at all but the front suspension is getting a straight 4-link with a panhard bar and coil-overs. The reason I am doing this in the front is to get as much axle drop as I can for when the front starts to lift off the ground. I am also going to running a huge sway bar to keep both tires planted to the track if one wants to lift. I can only run a max of 30" bars(links) but that is more than enough for what I want. On a mud racer I don't think I would go much over 40" unless you want them to bed. Also if you read thru those links I posted you will see that links that are parallel and drop down to the axle instead of just going straight will give you alot more tire plant there for giving you traction!!!

Hope that helps...Ryan

93 GMC Yukon
Chevy SuperStock 4x4 Truck Puller
Great Lakes Truck & Tractor Pulling Association
http://www.greatlakespull.com
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