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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 05:49 PM
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86 CJ7 SOA

Im getting ready to do a spring over on my 86 CJ7. I bought new spring perches and a drop pitman arm. What else do I need. I have heard stories about new drive shafts and steering componets. Would lowering my t-case help some of that problem. Is this going to be a coslty mistake or should I just save my bucks and purchase a factory lift.
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86 Cj-7 in need of some serious lift!!!!!

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 07:18 PM
 
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

Well, done right, you will not need the drop pitman arm with a SOA. What I did was to buy a lift for my 86, knowing that I would one day convert to SOA. Well the day is getting near for me and my SOA. Do alot of homework, and ask alot of questions before you get into it. I guess what Im saying is to know exactly what your going to do and know what your getting your self into prior to getting in too deep. Axle wrap was the thing that concerned me most, but I got a new welder for Xmas, so Im getting ready to make the anti wrap stuff and dive head first into it.
Good luck.

TJ

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 08:14 PM
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

Depending on how much extra drive shaft length you have in the yoke, you may have to lengthen your existing ones or buy new shafts all together.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 09:56 PM
 
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

a soa usually yields 5 to 6 inches of lift so chances are good that the drive shafts will need a little stretching and the dropped pitman arm will probably be needed too along with longer brake lines and longer shocks and something to control the spring wrapup

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 12:28 AM
 
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

For a soa that works well you will need more than just spring pearches and a drop pit man arm, your drive shafts will probably need to be leangthened, longer break lines, longer shocks, a hi-steer set up, works much better than a drop pitman arm, beefer shackels, an anti wrap bar. If you want a suspension you don't have to think about look into the rubicon express extreme duty 4.5" kit, it's complete w/ drop pitman arm, break lines, sway bar discos, greasable shackels, t-case drop, shocks, quality nice riding springs and a couple other things i can't remember right now. It's about $800 so it's not cheep but if you price it out compared to any other 4" lift with all the fixings it's about the same price.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 02:29 AM
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

Longer brakelines
Longer drivelines
Longer Shocks
New shock mounts
Dropped pitman arm, or crossover/hi-steer
Traction bar
On a CJ7 you should be able to get away w/o having to lower the t-case (unless you have an extremely long tranny/t-case setup) with the correct shaft/ pinion angle. Depending on the type of wheeling you do, SOA could be a costly way of lifting your JEEP, or it could be perfect. I enjoy the SOA's I have done for the terrain I wheel on.



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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 02:40 AM
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

pbm is right, it can get costly.

I did a swap on a '78 CJ-5 and the guy needed to buy a new rear driveshaft. The old one came right apart it was so short. His new Tom Woods rear CV shaft was about $400. Get something decent for an anti-wrap bar as well.

We extended the brake lines, because the additional flex was unreal, but he had worn out springs.



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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 12:34 PM
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

Spend the bucks for the CV driveshaft. Any lift over 2" will cause some type of vibration. Because you are doing the SOA, it means you will be welding the spring perches on top of the axle...if you get the CV driveshaft, then this is the perfect time to align the axle...with the CV, the pumpkin points straight at the transfer case...i.e., the driveshaft is in a straight line with the pinion on the diff...the CV joint takes care of the rest.

After spending many hours with shims and T-case lowering kits...I never was able to get all the vibration out of my driveline with the stock driveshaft...it will always vibrate at some point. Unless you make less than min wage...the CV driveshaft is some of the best money you will spend.


John...southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Rear, Detroit Front, Solid Axle's, Durabak, York Air

They say we learn by our mistakes......I guess thats why we are all so smart.
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 04:27 PM
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

I have raised my motor/tranny/t-case up 1.5", have SOA with CJ7 rear springs all the way around, and run a standard rear shaft w/o any vibrations. I had problems with CV shafts in my CJ5, and with the added length of a CJ7 don't see the need for it.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2001, 05:03 PM
 
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Re: 86 CJ7 SOA

Pat,
I dont run CV shafts either. I went through 3 of them in about 6 weeks, when I 1st installed the 5.0. The centering balls on the H bar would weaken within a week or so (just, street driving) and the CV joint start ratteling like a couple of skeletons screwing in a metal trash can. The 1st one came apart and destroyed the CV, after that I would install the spare, as soon as the noise started. I finaly had a spare built without a CV, and bought a non CV yoke, so that I could do a trail run and not worry about it. There was actually less vibration, so I decided to keep it on full time and see how well the non CV shaft would hold up. I have never looked back, and have not had a shaft fail since. I get no bad vibration either, even on the highway at 70mph.

Jeff
89 YJ
(sensibly altered for occasional off road use)
Vision without Action, is a Daydream. Action without Vision is a Nightmare.
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