Re: Carbon build up on rotor.
Please try and use a little punctuation.
I'm a dyslexic, and it looks like alphabet soup when you guys make the posts one long sentence....
*My coil is mounted high on the block in the same location as the original one.*
*I made a bracket up and its tight and seams dry.*
I-6 has coil on the side of the block, lots of splash & spray from the front wheels gets there.
*No cover for it though.
*Should there be one?
No, don't worry about it. Use lots of dielectric grease on the high voltage coil wire to boot, boot to high voltage tower, and fill that primary connection up.
The dielectric grease isn't going to stop any connections if your connectors are any good, and anywhere the grease is, moisture and corrosion isn't.... No air, no moisture, NO CORROSION...
*The coil I used came from the local Canadian Tire Store. It looks exactly like the one used in the "Juice Box" kit. Again, I didn't use dielectric grease on the primary connections.*
The coil is suspect unless you got it out of a box that said, "Borg Warner", "Crown" or "MSD"...
(Having said that, it probably isn't your coil.)
BTW, the 'Juice Box' is the original 'TeamRush upgrade' that someone packaged using as cheap of parts as they could lay hands on... The guy selling them used to be on this BBS...
*When you talk about using dielectric grease I assume you mean on the plastic and silicone connectors not on the electrical connections. Correct?*
Dielectric grease is commonly referred to as 'Tune Up Grease'. I use it on every part of the ignition system.
It doesn't conduct electricity, doesn't attack plastic or rubber, and anywhere the grease is, moisture and air are not...
I pump the connectors full, and wipe off what squirts out, then use a nylon zip tie to hold the connector together.
I don't have problems like that....
*I do have the I6 engine with the new cap adapter and larger cap as specified in the TeamRush TFI upgrade. I gotta say that it worked wonders for me. My Jeep has never run as well as it does since I did the upgrade.*
That's why I went to the trouble of putting the upgrade info together, statements just like that one...
And the fact I hated seeing guys spending $600 for a GM HEI style distributor just so the old Jeep started in the morning to haul his butt to work.... ($600 is hard to come by for working men...)
Guys can cuss my sense of humor, argue my methods, or complain about my gruff manor all they want to, but when I hear a working man say I helped, that other crap doesn't matter...
*Inside the cap was dry.*
No condensation.... No sucked in water.... May have already burned away, or it was just vapor, and didn't condense...
Vapor will do some pretty strange stuff.... Especially when you add road salt!
*The carbon was on the bottom of the cap and on the rotor, bad on the top terminal, and it was a smooth, very black powdery soot. And yes, I wiped it off with my finger (No black chunks as you ask).*
You have low temperature combustion going on inside the cap...
Something is catching fire. Moisture, Gasses from the engine, maybe parts of the cap terminal material if the spark is having to jump too far... Or the coil/ module is giving out
*That's all I did and the Jeep started. I drove it all day today and you would think I dropped in a new engine.*
You just described a moisture (not wet, just damp) condition.
Buy a can of starting fluid to clean out the cap with, just make sure everything is evaporated before you put the cap back on, or KABOOM! (ask me how I know that...[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img])
That carbon is not carbon black, it's ionized carbon, and it's conductive.
Anything conductive will sap the high voltage to ground inside the distributor, and you don't get the engine to run worth a damn.
You removed the ground (conductive carbon) for the high voltage, and the high voltage went to the plugs where it belongs...
*The terminals on the inside of the cap are showing signs of burn across the entire contact. Is this normal? *
Better than normal, it's almost perfect. That means your rotor phasing is approximately correct.
As the advance comes and goes, the rotor nose is staying in line with the cap terminal, more or less...
(If it's all on one side, you really have to worry!)
You might want to spring for an MSD or Borg-Warner cap and rotor.
Sounds like the rotor may be too short, and I wonder what the terminals are made of if you are getting carbon in the cap...?...
*The rotor looks fine other than the carbon I found. One other thought I had is the condenser. I didn't install it with the new coil. Should I? Thought it was to limit ignition noise. Does it have another purpose?*
The "Condenser" (actually, it's a capacitor) has a couple of functions, but ignition noise is probably the biggest.
Tune your radio to AM and listen for the ignition...
Not having the capacitor wouldn't cause this problem, I wouldn't think....... ANY THING is possible on planet earth....
*Yes my fuel mileage dropped off, BIG TIME, I could almost see the gauge move.*
An engine on the verge of dying does some pretty strange vacuum things, one of them is draw tons of fuel...
*I haven't pulled the plugs yet, like I said it's running great today. I will check them the first chance I get.*
If it's running pretty good, then just wait until you get a garage and some time, and just replace the plugs.
They are probably shot after the fuel soak and combustion problems...
Good time to change the cap and rotor too!
*I did check the choke and it's fine. Actually was pulling off too early when the temp was below zero. Hope you didn't get bored with the long winded story. Thanks for help. *
Not bored... (well, maybe a little... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img])
Just couldn't read this post being all one long sentence...
(I'll bet some have wondered why I break up my posts... Now you know, I'm an Idiot Savant, only without the Savant part...)
Borg-Warner and MSD seem to make the best caps, rotors, and coils.
MSD makes the best plug wires, but they are EXPENSIVE! ($80)
They are simply the best... Best boots, best terminals, best wire, best crimping tools included!, best instructions...
Just out of curiosity, was there slush on the road, particularly on the right side, like where the right front wheel could sling it into vapor?....
Does your cap have a vent on top?
Do you have the correct rotor? & Is it on correctly?
I-6 rotors say "6 CYL." right on the top. If your rotor doesn't say, get a new one that does.
Did you use clear silicone to seal the cap base to the distributor housing?
(you can't get the entire thing to seal with the vacuum advance being outside the cap, but plug up as much as you can with out interfering with the vacuum advance)
Is your PCV valve new? Have you checked it lately?
(if plugged, the engine may force combustion gasses up through the distributor housing)
An EGR stuck open will do strange things too...
So many cats, so few recipes...