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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-21-2001, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

Here is my setup.
1985 CJ7 w/258 Weber 32/36, GM HEI

I don't drive my Jeep very often.

When I try to start the CJ after it has sat for several days I have to crank it forever. This is regardless of whether or not I depress the go pedal. It does this if the outside temp is Hot or Cold. If I crank it and rest and then crank it some more it will eventually start(in less than 5 minutes). Once it does start the high-idle never kicks in. I don't know if I am disengaging the high idle by pumping the pedal or not, but it never kicks in. I can speed up this process by using some starting fluid. It wil start almost immediately after I spray a little down the carb.

The Weber works great once the engine is warm. It idles smoothly and provides good power at all rpms. Once the engine is warm it will start on the first crank.

I have a fuel pressure regulator set at 2.5 and all of my fuel lines, filters, and fuel pump are in good working order. I don't remember exactly when this problem started, but it has gotten worse recently.

What is wrong with my Weber?

Thanks,
Tom


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-21-2001, 11:21 PM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

THis seems to be a trait of the Weber, not sure if it is the gas siphoning back or what, we've discussed this problem at some length in the past, but I don't think we ever came up with a good answer. I just live with it. As far as your choke goes, check your linkage, and your connection, are you still using the electric choke, if so, check out the connection to make sure it is OK

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 01:30 AM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

I have been wondering if it is a case of the fuel boiling out of the float bowl after the engine is shut down. You may want to try an insulator between the carb and the intake. I don't know if this will work or not. I took my weber off before I gave this a try.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 03:01 AM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

Press the go pedal down twice then try to start it without touching the gas. It "should" start. If it doesn't, do it again and still don't press the pedal when cranking. This is what I have to do when it's cold. I will press the gas twice then it will run for a second and eventually die out. I'll do it again then it will start and run like it is "supposed to". however that is!!!
Tim

post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 05:49 AM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

Sounds like your choke's not working. When it's cold, before you try and start it, take off air cleaner, work the throttle 1 time, the choke plate should SNAP closed. If it doesn't, then it's out of adjustment or inopperative. On my weber I find that there is a fine line between working or not. Also, when I got my Weber, before I installed it, I noticed that the choke plate would not close all the way cause it was rubbing on the carb body, a little scraping on the soft aluminum solved that.
My take on the loss of fuel in the fuel bowl is evaporation. I have the same problem on most other carbs,when an open air cleaner is used.
My starting procedure when cold is pump 10 or 12 times, starts way faster. My GUESS on that is, most of the time the Weber is a 1 barrel, it has only 1 squirt hole for the accelerator pump, therefore your only pumping in 1/2 the amount of fuel that you would be if you had a 2 barrel. All I know is what works for me.

CTjeepnut

You had to do what to fit those little tires?
I'm sure glad I own a CJ!
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 08:20 AM
 
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

Hey Tom! Still can' get it to run right? Did you try my suggestions that I posted to your last message on this topic?
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads//...view=&sb=&vc=1
To recap...
1) I think the fuel pump has a 1 way check valve. If this is true, one might fail, letting fuel return to the tank.
2) make sure the 3 way fuel filter is postitioned so that the return port(off-center nipple on carb side) is at the absolute highest point. If not, fuel might siphon back to the tank via the return port.
3) Last resort- Install a stand-alone check valve in line with the fuel line after the pump.



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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

I have checked the operation of the choke. Here is what it does:
With the air cleaner off and the key in the run position if I open the throttle by hand once the choke will hold the plates 90% closed(Is this correct?). The next time I open the throttle the plates will drop and never return to the 90% closed position. The high-idle never kicks in. Is there a lobe on the Weber that holds the high-idle position? Would the high-idle be disengaging at the same time that the choke disengages?

On the use of starter fluid?
Because the engine starts almost immediately on starter fluid this leads me to believe that the carb is fuel starved. I recently made a post on using an electric fuel pump with the Weber, I would think that would prime the carb immediately and that the starting issue would go away. However, I think it would be difficult to setup and electric pump and then step the pressure down to 2.5. I believe I only got a response from one person that was using an electric pump. I would think that there might be some type of fuel rated one-way valve that could be installed somewhere in the line that would keep the fuel from draining back to the tank.

I am going to try pumping the pedal 10 times before I touch the key. The I am going to turn the key and press the pedal once to engage the choke. Then I will crank away without touching the pedal. We will see if it works. If not I will be in search of a one-way valve.

Thanks,
Tom





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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 06:51 PM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

Hi Tom. The Weber is a touchy animal. Yes, the carb bowl is going dry. Check to see if your idle screw is more than 1 1/2 tuns out. If it is, you are exposing a transition hole that will let the carb run dry. The manual will say 2 turns, but I cannot run more than 1 1/2. Mine will run dry after 2 days. Have thought about an electric pump. I will probably just tee it in and run around the fuel pump. That way I can fill the carb up before starting. The fuel bowl in a Weber is pretty small. But I'm like you. It runs great. Much better than the BBD.

post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 07:31 PM
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

The choke plate should SNAP shut, 100% closed, when you open the throttle, on a cold engine.
If it doesn't, then something is binding, or it's not adjusted right. While cranking the engine, the plates will flutter a bit, but should return to fully closed if the engine doesn't start. Upon starting, the plates willopen about 10%, due to engine vacuum. After sensing oil presure, the electric choke will start to open the plates. The high idle cam is triggered by the choke plates closing. The high idle screw is on the valve cover side of the carb. The high idle cam will stay at high idle, even while the choke plates are opening, until the throttle is opened again.
Is your choke receiving power directly from the ignition switch or from the the oil pressure switch? I prefer to power the choke from the oil pressure switch, ( factory wired), this way the choke will not begin it's job until the engine starts. Otherwise the choke starts opening the plates as soon as the key is turned on.
Hope this helps, electric chokes can be a PITA , but when working right, it's a no brainer.

CTjeepnut

You had to do what to fit those little tires?
I'm sure glad I own a CJ!
post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2001, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help solve my Weber problem(long)??

I need to double check the choke's power source. It receives power as soon as the key is in the run position. Who knows what color the oil pressure power line is in an '85 harness? I tried starting the CJ today by depressing the gas pedal 10 times then I turned the key to the run position and pressed the pedal once then I began to crank. It started after only a couple of seconds. Granted yesterday I drove it for a 10 minutes. I will have to try again after it has sat for a couple of days. I will also check the idle screw's position and the power source for the choke. I bet that the choke is receiving power directly from the battery, that would explain the plates opening prematurely. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will post my results.

Thanks Again,


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