The pin I chose is made from stainless steel I don't see a problem with shearing in two pieces. I'll have to do some calculations to get exact shear forces on the pin. The disconnect is very simple to install and use, just remove the pin and each end of the sway is independent. The sway bar cannot separate because the disconnect has a retaining ring and thrust washer. To connect sway replace pin.
The pictures are from my Suzuki Sidekick 4x4. I saw somebody selling a similar device but I don't think it retained each side of the sway bar after removal of the pin. I think it was held together with a bolt?
Is that for the front or rear? I know on my tj i ditched my rear sway bar (no differance in handling) and then my front i have $2 discos which are clevis and hitch pin set ups, work good, just about as easy as your's and cost me $2 form menards.
The disconnect is on the front of my vehicle. I thought about the disconnects on the end links but don't like to crawl underneath my vehicle. Owning a machine shop has it advantages keeps me out of Menards. LOL
By disconnecting at the center each end of the sway bar is now independent of each other. It's the same if you disconnect at the sway bar ends. There is enough spring pressure on the front end to overcome any friction created by the sway bar end link bushings. On my Suzuki their is a ball joint that connects the sway bar to the a-arm. I saw an article I believe in Autoweek that showed a simliar device on a Humvee but it was controlled from the dash. It employed a splined shaft with a synchro ring to engage and disengage the sway bar for orr-roading. Hope this helps