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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 06:57 PM
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autobody 101 ??

Any bodywork gurus out there to guide me as to correct steps to follow ? I pop riveted galvanized steel of 26 gauge to clean , bare metal . Due to time constraints and impending rain , I am forced to stretch this project out over many days . In some places , I applied a rough coat of plastic filler to cover the patches . I then sprayed the patched plastic filler area with " a general purpose primer " . Question 1 - Is it AOK to drive the vehicle in the rain or will the primer not protect the plastic filler against the water ? Question 2 - Can I reapply more plastic filler directly to the area already painted with primer or do I need to grind the primer away before I reapply more filler ?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 08:46 PM
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Re: autobody 101 ??

1. I ain't no expert.
2. Primer absorbs water, not seals against it.
3. Be sure to use Paintable Autobody Seam Sealer (NAPA carries the stuff).
4. The rain will affect the primer.
5. The rain should NOT affect the filler.
6. Don't forget to seal and paint the underside of the patches.
7. IMHO remove the primer if you wish to re-fill with more filler.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 10:02 PM
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Re: autobody 101 ??

Thank you for the info. I 'm glad that I asked for help .

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 10:24 PM
 
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Re: autobody 101 ??

Okay, primer is usually wet sanded when doing body work. With that said, Leve is right in that it does absorb water. The body filler is okay to use as long as it is applied to a rough surface (40 grit paper will suffice), and that includes recoats if necessary. I would definately try to get it painted asap if your worried about the body filler eventually bubbling, or having any cosmetic problems down the road. Trapped moisture will turn to rust!

Just my 2 pennies.

TJ

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2001, 01:25 AM
 
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Re: autobody 101 ??

Depending, but for the normal guy at home they really don't have to wetsand, unless of course you want to get fancy. And if you do wet sand make sure you have a wet sandable primer. With most body work you do to coats of primer, you do your first run of body work, and sand (around 220 -240grit i think). prime. then sand with a finer paper
( I used 600 but I remeber reading it was better suited for a base/clear application, so somewhere around 400 would be good for akrilic or spary can ) This will find your highs and lows, then prime with a different color primer so you can make sure you cover the whole area again

sorry about the length
Chad


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2001, 07:32 AM
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Re: autobody 101 ??

I have seen a lot of auto-body fillers trap moisture, or allow it to get behind the filler, which causes it to rust out. Regular Bondo has always done this. I'd recommend a Marine Bondo, it is much tougher, seals against moisture better, and is designed to flex more. Also, did you put a sealant between the two pieces of metal before you rivited them together? If not, it'll rust out. I know this all too well from prior experiences, before I knew how to weld.

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