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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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A note on powdercoated alternators

A while back I purchased a powder-coated high output alternator. My stocker was on it's last legs and I needed a quick bolt-on to make due until I can spend the time/money on something more beefy with different bracketry. The powder-coating was only $10 so I figured what the heck, it's black, it looks very tactical.

Well long story short I put it in and it works but it's real flakey and then stops charging all together. I pull it out, check all the connections, and find that the small wire has no continuity. Rewire that, put it back in, same problem. ARG!!!!

Put the old one back in and it works just fine!!!! Have the new one tested and it's just fine! ARG!!!! Well then a friend got me thinking about the case ground (would not have occured to me in a 1000 years). Got out the DMM out and sure enough, the front of the case is >1 Ohm to ground, the rear is 43K Ohms to ground (on a clean metal piece). Compared to my old alternator this is not good.

There were two options here, I could run a separate ground strap to the case, or I could rework the case a bit. I chose to take each of the long bolts that holds the case together and gring off the powder coating where their heads seat onto the rear half. This did the trick! It works like a champ (for the moment). I did however re-tap the case ground hole (to get rid of powdercoating) and install a bolt there just in case I want to pit am additional strap on it in the future.

Another cool trick, I also re-tapped the tensioner bolt so that I can take the entire alternator off the bracket with just a couple of 9/16's wrenches, instead of all that metric crap.

'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 03:42 PM
 
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

There is a boss on the back of the case that is already threaded, that is where the 8 GA. ALTERNATOR GROUND WIRE should have been...
Sometimes there is a small bracket attached there also. Ground cable and bracket are OK on the same bolt.

If you choose to drill out the top mounting (adjuster) ear,

1. Make sure the bolt you choose will go through the slot on the top adjustment bracket.
Some brackets won't support a bolt shank any larger than 5/16", so a 3/8" bolt (9/16" head) might be too big.

2. Make sure you use Heli-Coil in the hole if you intend to tap directly in to the aluminum.
Heli-coil will not strip out like aluminum threads do (usually at the worst possible time. see Murphy's law...) and they are replaceable if they do.
This will also fix a stripped hole on an other wise useable alternator.

3. What ever size wire you use for the "BATT" Terminal, (battery voltage to back of alternator) You must use at least that size to the alternator ground to the back of the case. That is the other side of your circuit, and that short piece of wire and ends will insure you don't have problems with the charging system.
I recommend at least 8 GA. for both sides of the charging circuit.

Side Note.
I use threaded inserts called Nut-Serts a lot on holes that have been 'wollowed out' or have been drilled oversize and would be otherwise unusable.
Nut -Serts are full size expanding sleeves that you insert into the hole, then use a tool not unlike a pop riveter to expand the sleeve in a press fit.
Works on everything from sheet metal to full length blind holes in solid material.
(Usually used on stuff too thin or too soft to hold common threads, like sheet metal, cast aluminum, plastics and Teflon)

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

As usual TR, good advice.

Will follow up with the helicoil thing when I get time. Until then I will carry a bolt long enough to trough-bolt the adjuster ear if necessary.

For #3: I'm a "big wire guy". If spec says 10, I use 4. The only problem is that there is a cheesy-ass plastic connector on the side of the case with 16 gauge or so leads on it. I've seen similar alternators with bolt/stud connectors. This is a standard small case AC-Delco alternator. Is there a way to change those out to something a little beefier?

'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 05:35 PM
 
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

Throw me a picture of what you are talking about and I'll root through the parts bin to see what I can come up with....

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 10:24 PM
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

TeamRush,

Where would I find those Nut-Serts and the Nut-Sert tool?

"It's a Jeep thing... and I DO understand"
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 01:29 AM
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

try your local Schucks or Checker and Kragen depending on where you live. I think they will loan tools (deposit of course)Not positive but they may have them. Cant hurt to try

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 10:24 AM
 
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

Let me see,
Mine says 'Bowman' Distributing on the box.
I've also seen them in 'Lawson' catalogs.
Ask any nut and bolt supplier, and they soul have one brand or another.
The inserts are all about the same, but spend the money on a good tool. I broke several of the cheap ones before I got the Bowman kit, and it's got a good install tool.

Bowman, Lawson & Fastenall are all high end hardware suppliers around here. I'm just assuming they are nation wide....
(assume makes an 'ass' out of 'u' and 'me'...)

If you can't find one anywhere else, I'll get a catalog from my Bowman man and send it to you or get you their web address.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 12:16 PM
 
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

You might also see these things called Riv Nuts. Very neat little item.

Craig
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 05:59 PM
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Re: A note on powdercoated alternators

Yup. They are in the Aircraft Tool Suply catalog. Also the Snap-On and Mac catalogs as well. They may even be called thread setters. There are a ton of differant names for the same tool. I think they are around 50 bucks. Or $6 if you buy the one in the Northern Tools catalog. I think I have also seen a kit to turn your pop riveter into a riv-nut setter. Post back if you want some websites.

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