Join Date: May 2001
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A note on powdercoated alternators
A while back I purchased a powder-coated high output alternator. My stocker was on it's last legs and I needed a quick bolt-on to make due until I can spend the time/money on something more beefy with different bracketry. The powder-coating was only $10 so I figured what the heck, it's black, it looks very tactical.
Well long story short I put it in and it works but it's real flakey and then stops charging all together. I pull it out, check all the connections, and find that the small wire has no continuity. Rewire that, put it back in, same problem. ARG!!!!
Put the old one back in and it works just fine!!!! Have the new one tested and it's just fine! ARG!!!! Well then a friend got me thinking about the case ground (would not have occured to me in a 1000 years). Got out the DMM out and sure enough, the front of the case is >1 Ohm to ground, the rear is 43K Ohms to ground (on a clean metal piece). Compared to my old alternator this is not good.
There were two options here, I could run a separate ground strap to the case, or I could rework the case a bit. I chose to take each of the long bolts that holds the case together and gring off the powder coating where their heads seat onto the rear half. This did the trick! It works like a champ (for the moment). I did however re-tap the case ground hole (to get rid of powdercoating) and install a bolt there just in case I want to pit am additional strap on it in the future.
Another cool trick, I also re-tapped the tensioner bolt so that I can take the entire alternator off the bracket with just a couple of 9/16's wrenches, instead of all that metric crap.
'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes