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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-09-2001, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Axle end play measurements & t-case problem (long)

I need a little help from the drivetrain experts in my continuing AMC 20 saga. I posted a post a few days that is was toast and I was thinking of swapping in a D44, but after taking it apart, I'm starting to believe it may be ok and the T-case is taost. The symtoms were:
1. Excessive play somewhere in the drivetrain, causing a jerk and "clunking" noise when starting from a dead stop or when lettin goff the gas to coast.
2. About every tenth time I start from a stop, I get a loud grinding noise and she doesn't want to move. After a second or two, she takes off and drives fine. It's sound's like gears "slipping" somewhere.
3. Passenger side axle seals last about 50 miles, then start pouring gear lube (I've been blaming this on a bent tube.
Here's what I found:
1. Ring and pinion are in great shape with a good wear pattern.
2. Very little play in R&P or spider gears
3. No metal in diff. lube
4. Excessive play in axle shafts. Driver's side moves in and out about 1/4", and the passenger side moves up and down about 1/4" (which explains eating the seals)
5. Axle bearing are in good shape.
6. Haven't drained the T-case (D300) in 3-4 monthes, but last time I did, there was a small amount of metal on the magnet in the drain plug (didn't seem abnormal, tho) I'll try to drain it tomorrow and see what's in there.
7. with tranny and t-case in gear and rear wheels off the ground, I can turn the driveshaft back and forth 1/4-1/2".
8. T-case shifter is kind of "sloppy" - You have to feel around to get it in gear.

All this brings on a couple of questions.
1. Where should I be measuring axle shaft end play? Do I put the dial indicator on the end of the shaft, or on the side? There were 4 shims in the driver side, and I removed two. This brought the axle shaft play to a seamingly acceptable value (I haven't actually measured it yet)
2. Where are the grinding and clunking noises coming from? I suspect the T-case, but I'm not 100% sure. I've never open up a D300. Would I be able to see anything through one of the access covers, or will I have to drop it and tear it apart? What parts normally wear out in this box?

Thanks in advance for any help you guyys can provide. (feel free to hit me up with your electrical questions - that's what I know best[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img])

-Derek Schwab
'97 Sidekick Sport
'83 CJ-7
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 01:27 AM
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Re: Axle end play measurements & t-case problem (long)

Seems like it could be a bunch of things.If you have the two peice axels that could be one problem ,you may have spun the hub.That would cause a grinding sound,and the slipping from start.Also your bearings can't be in good shape if your axel has 1/4 inch runout and the other has excessive endplay.some other things to check are U joints and the slipyoke on the driveshaft may be shot,this would cause a clunking when accelerating or coming off the gas.

Learn to let go of what does not serve you ,but forces you to serve it
why does everyone ask if I am gonna paint it ?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Axle end play measurements & t-case problem (long)

I'll pull the hubs and check on them, I didn't even think about that, but now that you mention it, it started about 100 miles after I went to Tellico in the middle of the night and had to back out of a few trails that were way past my capabilities [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] (I probably was a little heavy on the skinny pedal too [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img])
I guess I can go on and change the bearings. I've already got new ones. What size press do I need to put them on? Will something like this work?
Or do I need this one?
BTW, the U-joints are brand new - I broke one on the street a few weeks ago and replaced both. The slip joint seems to be ok, there's no play in it. The driveshaft's also fairly new, a year or so.

-Derek Schwab
'97 Sidekick Sport
'83 CJ-7
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