After you find the List Number...
1. Make sure you are getting full throttle travel.
Have someone set in the vehicle and work the throttle pedal a couple of times...
You are looking for:
A. The throttle blades to open and close fully.
Closed means having the linkage resting on the idle speed stop screw.
Fully open means having the primary throttle blades perfectly perpendicular (up and down in the Venturi bore).
If they don't open fully, or they go over center, you have just wasted my time and yours.
Find a spot on the linkage that pulls the throttle shaft(s) fully open. If you have to drill a new hole, do it.
B. You want to be looking for a steady stream of fuel squirting out of the 'Shooters' (correct term, Accelerator Pump Fuel Discharge Nozzles) while the throttle is going down.
This stream should last the entire stroke of the throttle, and sometimes for a tiny bit after the throttle is fully open.
If you get sputtering, air bubbles, starting late, finishing early or anything else than a long, smooth 'squirt', you have an accelerator pump problem.
Techno Babble, but maybe this will help you...
CARBURETOR ACCELERATOR PUMP SYSTEM
The accelerator pump system consists of three main components:
1. the pump diaphragm,
2. the pump cam
3. the pump nozzle.
This is the carburetor system that is most responsible for having good, crisp, off-idle throttle response.
Its purpose is to inject a certain amount of fuel down the throttle bores
when the throttle is opened. By accomplishing this purpose it acts to
smooth the transition between the idle and main circuits so that no stumble, hesitation or sluggishness will be evident during this transition phase.
The first adjustment to check is the clearance between the pump operating lever and the pump diaphragm cover's arm, at wide open throttle.
This clearance should be around .015".
The purpose for this clearance is to assure that the pump diaphragm is never stretched to its maximum limit at wide open throttle.
This will cause premature pump failure.
Once this clearance has been set take a good look at the pump linkage and work the throttle. Make sure that the accelerator pump arm is being activated the moment that the throttle begins to move. This will assure that pump response will be instantaneous to the movement of the throttle.
These adjustments can be made by turning the accelerator pump adjusting screw that is located on the accelerator pump arm together with the pump override spring and lock nut.
The amount of fuel that can be delivered by one accelerator pump stroke
is determined by the pump's capacity and the profile of the pump cam.
The period of time that it will take for this pre-determined amount of
fuel to be delivered is affected by the pump nozzle size.
A larger pump nozzle will allow this fuel to be delivered much sooner
than a smaller pump nozzle. If you need more pump shot sooner, then
a larger pump nozzle size is required. During acceleration tests, if you
notice that the car first hesitates and then picks up, it's a sure bet that the pump nozzle size should be increased.
A backfire (lean condition) on acceleration also calls for a step up in pump nozzle size.
Conversely, if off-idle acceleration does not feel crisp or clean, then the pump nozzle size may already be too large. In this case a smaller
size is required.
Holley accelerator pump nozzles are stamped with a number which
indicates the drilled pump hole size. For example, a pump nozzle
stamped "35" is drilled .035".
Pump nozzle sizes are available from .025" to .052".
Please note that whenever a .040" or larger accelerator pump nozzle is installed the "hollow" pump nozzle screw, P/N 26-12, should also be used.
This screw will allow more fuel to flow to the pump nozzle, assuring that the pump nozzle itself will be the limiting restriction in the accelerator pump fuel supply system.
NOTE: When changing the pump nozzle it's best to jump three sizes. For
example if there's currently a off-line hesitation with #28 (.028")
pump nozzle, try a #31(.031") pump nozzle. If you must use a #37 (.037")
or larger pump nozzle, then also use a 50cc pump.
The same applies to the accelerator pump cams. Once a pump nozzle size
selection has been made the accelerator pump system can be further
tailored with the pump cam. Holley offers an assortment of different
pump cams, each with uniquely different lift and duration profiles,
that are available under Holley P/N 20-12. Switching cams will directly
affect the movement of the accelerator pump lever and, subsequently,
the amount of fuel available at the pump nozzle. Lay out the pump cams
side by side and note the profile differences. This little exercise may
help to better explain the differences between the cams and their
effect on pump action.
Installing a pump cam is straighfforward. It's a simple matter of
loosening one screw, placing the new pump cam next to the throttle
lever and tightening it up. There are two and sometimes three holes
in each pump cam, numbered 1, 2 and 3. Placing the screw in position
#1 activates the accelerator pump a little early, allowing full use
of the pump's capacity. Generally, vehicles which normally run at
lower idle speeds (600 or 700 RPM) find this position more useful
because they can have a good pump shot available coming right off
this relatively low idle. Positions #2 and #3 delay the pump action,
relatively speaking. These two cam positions are good for engines
that idle around 1000 RPM and above. Repositioning the cam in this
way makes allowance for the extra throttle rotation required to
maintain the relatively higher idle setting. Pump arm adjustment and
clearance should be checked and verified each and every time the
pump cam and/or pump cam position is changed:
Lastly, a 50cc accelerator pump conversion kit is available under
Holley P/N 20-11 when maximum pump capacity is desired.
So many cats, so few recipes...