*I went to the carb shop to get it rebuilt and they said they would test it after the rebuild and it was going to all cost 165.00.*
That's fair if the guy knows what he's doing.
Obviously he DOESN'T OR HE WOULD TEST THE CARB FIRST!!!
It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to tune a Holley, and he wants to rebuild before he sees if there is anything wrong with the carb...
*I asked them if they could just test it, and if it was bad if they could deduct it from the 165.*
Makes sense, attempt to tune so you know what's not working correctly. Wonder why the shop guy didn't think of that? It's supposed to be his job...
*It cost me 20 dollars,but it was well worth it.
He talked to me about it for about 10 minutes before testing it and I mentioned some of the stuff you informed me of aaron
If he gave you a lot of blank looks or argued with you, he doesn't know what he's doing with a Holley.
*He said that the idle screws were too far in(they were 2 turns I believe out)
He said they must be AT least level with the side of the carb.*
RUN LIKE HELL !! RUN NOW, AND AS FAST AS YOU CAN !!
This guy is a moron!
Idle screws being even with any part of the carb has nothing to do with anything!
And unless you have the emissions control odd-ball metering block (you never sent me a picture of the idle mixture screws, so I still don't know) 2 turns is WAY too far out...
If you have the emissions version, Out is Lean, and that is backwards to the standard metering block.
The emissions metering block may take two or three turns out to make it run,
That screw adjustment has NOTHING TO DO WITH BEING "LEVEL WITH THE SIDE OF THE CARB"...
*My only problem now is it won't run choked, but I guess thats not big deal as it seems to run pretty well.I changed my spark plugs the same day..It actually works extremely well now.(I believe one or two were fowled due to my battery falling on the header and putting acid on the engine)*
How would having acid on the outside of the engine foul your plugs?????
Fouled plugs come from improperly adjusted fuel mixture, fuel, oil or water getting into the cylinder, or the ignition not working correctly....
*Do you see that hose in the picture?Can you tell me what it goes to?*
If you mean your picture, there are at least 3 vacuum lines visible.
The one coming from the metering block, (just above the idle mixture screw) should be hooked to the vacuum advance on your carb.
The one on the canister hooked to the side of the carb should be connected to a manifold vacuum to pull the choke off.
*It was hooked up to another vacuum tube thing in the front of the carb.*
That is a vacuum port. There are two kinds of vacuum ports, Manifold Vacuum, that comes from under the carb, and Ported Vacuum, that comes from inside the Venturi Bore.
Ported Vacuum should normally be used for the vacuum advance on your distributor.
*The guy at the carb place said it should be hooked up to my air cleaner and it tells my carb how much air to draw in.. he kinda seemed iffy on it and said thats where it should go.
Does that make sense?*
The guy didn't have a clue what he was doing, find another shop... or find a hot rodder in the neighborhood to help with the directions I sent you...
Print all that stuff off, and almost anyone should be able to follow those directions...
So many cats, so few recipes...