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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-06-2001, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

i'm putting in my first Painless preterminated CJ wiring harness. Any previous experience hints and tips would be much appreciated. i was thinking of lightly sanding/cleaning all the dash terminals and applying dielectric grease all over the inside of the connectors. i would like to prevent as much corrosion/water damage as possible. i was going to seal the open backends up with silicone or rtv but i was just told that that conventional rtv is corrosive to connector metal. i found a spray corrosion cleaner i'll use in tough spots like the ignition and headlights connector. But i was also in search of an spray/aerosol electrical sealant i could apply afterwards if thought necessary. Let me know what you guys think, any advise is much apppreciated. Thanks in advance. Scott...

My Rides
1979 CJ-7: 304, T-150, much is my rebuild
1985 CJ-7: 258, T-5, for Peru Excursion
1989 XJ: has seen every state except Hawaii

In search of lost paths and distant locations...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 12:27 AM
 
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

Hey MyRide. While you are at it, make sure you build yourself a GOOD ground system. I did this recently and it makes a WORLD of difference.

For the MOTHER of all grounding systems:
1) Used 2 HD Belkin ground straps to ground block to frame (one under each motor mount). Available at NAPA, about 2" wide, 12" long.
2) Used 0/0 gauge welding wire to ground the batteries to the block.
3) Used 4 gauge welding wire to ground battery to bus bars.
4) One ground bus in the engine compartment on the firewall, all engine compartment accessories grounded here (except winch of course).
5) One ground bus under the dash with ground augmentation going to the body, the dash panel itself, and a couple to individual gauges.
6) One 4 gauge ground strap on the rear/body to frame.
7) Use star washers to penetrate painted areas.

I used a marine bus bar to ground to the body in the engine compartment.

Check out:
http://www.boatus-store.com/mc_onlin...showitem=31039

For additional fuses:
http://www.boatus-store.com/mc_onlin...showitem=17024

'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 06:40 AM
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

When I put a Painless kit in my CJ5 a few years ago, many of the wires were way to long (for a CJ8 if needed). Get a good pair of wire cutters and a realy good pair of wire strippers. I also used about 3' of shrink wrap for the whole job. Resist the temptation to use butt-splice connectors, always solder and seal.

And as it was mentioned before, a good grounding system is the most important thing to install. Its the easiest but the most commonly overlooked part, even if you have a steel tub.

Jay C.

I know what you're thinking. Did he fire six shots or only five?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

Thanks for the advise, what do you mean by 4 and 5. What is a ground 'bus'? The ground system will definitely be a priority.

Scott...

My Rides
1979 CJ-7: 304, T-150, much is my rebuild
1985 CJ-7: 258, T-5, for Peru Excursion
1989 XJ: has seen every state except Hawaii

In search of lost paths and distant locations...
MyRide is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

Thanks for the help. On the 'solder and seal', do you mean shrink wrap? Have you ever tried that black goo sealant that starts out liquid and hardens to like tape. i'll probably stick with the shrink wrap. Thanks again, Scott...

My Rides
1979 CJ-7: 304, T-150, much is my rebuild
1985 CJ-7: 258, T-5, for Peru Excursion
1989 XJ: has seen every state except Hawaii

In search of lost paths and distant locations...
MyRide is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 11:58 AM
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

Just to tag onto this thread. I have CJ-7 w/painless harness. It was a half completed project vehicle I bought so I don't have the original instructions and did not do the intitial install. Anyway, I put is my steering steering column (for an automatic) w/shift on the column and it has the back up light stuff on the base of the column near the firewall, but I can't find the end of the wiring harness that connects to it. The harness seems well labeled but no luck finding anything labeled backup lights or the like. Is there a different setup on some Jeeps? The steering column is out of a '77 CJ-7 that had a TH400 auto tranny. Any ideas? Thanks,


rich
77cj7304QtracTH400, 31" BFG AT's, TFI upgrade
79cj7frame,ready to be built
83cj7inpieces, parts Jeep
"They can take my guns, but they'll have to take them bullets first."
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 12:29 PM
 
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

4) A "BUS" is a resource that is easily tapped into. Those bars I sent you the link for above are "bus bars". They allow you to tap into a good ground point with lots of little points (lights, gauges, etc).
5) this just means you put one bar under the hood, and one under the dash. Run ground wires and connect them to the dash structure and appropriate gauges individually.

Make sure you use LARGE guage wire for all your main connections in the bus system, it will save you problems later.




'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 12:58 PM
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

Splicing wire is not an art, it's just plain ol' logic. So think about what you're doing, and why. This has to last the life of the vehicle in some pretty harsh conditions and NOT let you down. If you've got the time and money to do it twice, or three times... then you've got the time and money to do it right the first time and forget it.

<font color=red>ANY</font color=red> connection you make that's not soldered, sealed and heat shrunk can become compromised by corrosion. That's a problem. Don't use no scotch-locks, no fancy connectors, there's no easy way out! Use GOOD quality multi strand wire, and get a gauge that will handle the current return you need. Make sure you use good quality ELECTRIC solder, it's the resin core stuff. If you use the mechanical acid core you've just destroyed the harness.

Buy several sections of shrink-wrap tubing (available at Radio Shacks and most hardware stores). Cut them to the length you need and slip it over one of the wires you've cut and will splice.

When you make a splice, solder the wired together. It's good electrical practice and keeps the joint from becoming intermittent.

Now fill the area of the splice with RTV or something like Permatex black, and slide the shrink-wrap tubing over the area of the splice.

Heat the tubing, and it will shrink down, extruding the sealant and forming a very nice, professional, and weatherproof splice that you'll likely never have to visit again. That's what you want, do it right the first time and forget it!

Now visit the electrical panel in your house. Look at all the wires that are slipped into holes in the big Bars. One is a grounding bar and the others carry the voltage. This bar is a buss Bar. It's just a bar with holes and bolts that thread down into the holes. You slip in a bare wire, tighten the nut down on the wire, makes a very good connection.

If you put one buss bar on the firewall, and a second one on/under the dash you now have a CENTERAL grounding buss bar for both locations. This is the place where ALL grounds should come terminate. The is type of bar can even be enclosed to help eliminate corrosive factors such as road salts and chemicals. That's your choice, but it would be a good thing to do.

Here's one of my favorite pictures of all time. If you've never seen <font color=blue>slnewcomb's</font color=blue> answer to a grounding problem, then you're in for a treat. Take a look at his grounding bar, this is buss bar has been done right:



Some think it's overkill, but IMHO it's better that clean underwear and sliced bread and prettier than a naked lady (unless she's holding a gadget).

It's a real piece of beauty, a piece of the mechanical arts! <font color=red>It's done right the first time.</font color=red>

Fratt77CJ, this may help you out: <font color=red>Painless Wiring Instructions</font color=red>


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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 02:57 PM
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

As I am presently rewiring my '66 Jeepster with a Ron Francis Wireworks harness and panel, I echo all the above. I'm not sure if this one was mentioned, so here it is: If you need to connect new wiring to old wiring, (or new to new, old to old), rather than butt splicing which is a long tube which you crimp at both ends where the wire is inserted, use a parallel splice connector, which is a short non-insulated tube that forces the wires to overlay each other and then the connector is crimped once in the middle. For extra good contact, push/join the wire ends together so they mesh kinda like shuffling cards together. Crimp it, solder it, heat shrink it and your done. Most or all the connectors sent with wiring kits are the insulated type, so for the ultimate, either remove the insulators or buy non-insulated connectors so you can crimp, solder and shrink wrap.

Tim
'66 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 252/4.1L V-6
'70 Wagoneer w/Buick 350 V-8
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2001, 03:23 PM
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Re: Need Wiring Harness Help!!!

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

On the 'solder and seal', do you mean shrink wrap? Have you ever tried that black goo sealant that starts out liquid and hardens to like tape.

<hr></blockquote>

Yeah, seal the connections with shrink wrap. Try to find some shrink wrap that has an adhesive inside, that is the good stuff.

I have never tried the liquid electrical tape. Seems like good stuff.

Jay C.

I know what you're thinking. Did he fire six shots or only five?
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