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unlocking front axle / twin sticked

967 views 5 replies 1 participant last post by  **DONOTDELETE** 
G
#1 ·
Question. Im locked at both ends and as you know, when locked your front axle wants to do the wide turn thing while on the trails. Im thinking that if I unlock my front axle(homemade twinsticked D20), the front locker wont be engaged (no power to it) and I will get my tight turns back?

Also when the snows come here to Boston, the front locker will be exciting on the snow and ice. What if I just unlocked one hub. The front axle that is locked through the hub would turn, without the wild ride on the white stuff.

Am I off bace with these?
Tell me if I am, and what Im missing here

Chu



 
G
#2 ·
>>>>>>Question. Im locked at both ends and as you know, when locked your front axle wants to do the wide turn thing while on the trails. Im thinking that if I unlock my front axle(homemade twinsticked D20), the front locker wont be engaged (no power to it) and I will get my tight turns back?
***** No, as i have mentioned before, that wont really help in much (especially in the snow and such) because the axle will still all be connected as one unit, that is what causes most of the binding. Power or not, it is still locked.

>>>>>>Also when the snows come here to Boston, the front locker will be exciting on the snow and ice.
***** More like death! lol

>>>>>What if I just unlocked one hub. The front axle that is locked through the hub would turn, without the wild ride on the white stuff.
****** That would work great offroad when wheeling for turning but i dont think it would be such a good idea with the snow and ice unless you discoed your from driveshaft via the twin stick so one wheel isnt getting 100% of the power and throwing you around with the force of that wheel.

Ok, its sounds like i am rambling and cant explain it well. Anyone else care to elaborate?

thanks

Boston Mangler
89 YJ With A Bunch Of Goodies
See It At:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/
 
#4 ·
No kidding, without power, the locker with ratchet around the corner and will turn like normal (unless on glare ice, where there isn't enough friction to overcome the ratchet). That's the whole reasoning behind twin sticking a transfer, selectability.

As to the idea of one hub, yes and no.

Yes, it will help you steer while on the road, as only one wheel is powering, leaving the other to "track".

However...

All 100% of the power to the front is transferred to that one side, so if you're spinning and then hit terra firma, you'll probably snap something.

The proper way to think of it is this: It's worse than having an open front diff, but it's better than having both sides locked..sometimes.

There is no firm answer, it depends on the snow pack on the road. Get into some slush and you're toast with a front locker. Run on hard pack snow and you're fine. Loose powder is OK, at slower speeds.

If I'm above 30 mph, I'm in 2WD anyway. If I'm below, the front is OK to be locked in as it's slow enough to be controllable, and All Wheel Drive is needed.

This doesn't apply to welded diffs and spools as they never "release".


JEEPN
Winter Harbor, Maine
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled, It's a Jeep, Chevy, IHC kinda thing!
'88.5 Zuki, 7" Lift, Locked, Swamped, Rolled, and just generally broken in right!
 
G
#5 ·
i'm running detriot e-z lockers front and back(free floating)and i remember the company papers say that running with one hub unlocked is a good way to destroy the locker now i don't know if thats the same for your locker or not.but when i'm on the trail in 2wdhi(d20 don't have a twin stick yet any ideas?)my steering is a heck of alot better then when i put it in 4wd. i don't see the advantage of riding in 4wd with one wheel unlocked wouldn't steering be a little odd in oppisite turns?

taco
78cj7
 
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