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Need some arc welding 101

496 views 5 replies 1 participant last post by  GreenMachine 
#1 ·
I didn't get to go to Livingston (again) so I decided to work on the street jeep today. My big mig died and so I bought a ac/dc lincoln that the depot had on clearance. I need to know what to set it to for 6011 1/8 inch rods. I am going to be welding on spring hangers in the front. I have been using it on DC 120 and it seems to be getting good penetration. I burned through some 3/16 I was trying to weld to 1/4. It doesn't seem to be leaving a real thick bead though and I was wondering if I needed to change the setting. The bead looks good no pitting or bubbles.

GreenMachine
 
G
#2 ·
120 A is a good setting for 1/8" E6011, but may be a bit hot for 3/16" stuff. Anywhere from about 85 A to about 130 A is OK for the 1/8" E6011 electrodes. If you are getting too much penetration on DCEP, try setting it to DCEN. DCEN generally has lower penetration then DCEP and will deposit more metal in a shorter time, making your bead shallower and wider. You could also try to increase your travel speed a bit to reduce the burn-through. If that still doesn't work, try reducing the current in 10 A increments until you get a decent bead with no burn-through.

A good listener is not only popular everywhere, but after a while he gets to know something.
-Wilson Mizner
 
#3 ·
The spring hangers I have are about 1/4 maybe thicker. The frame is probably thinner but I might try 120 and go less if it wants to burn through. I also have to weld one spring perch onto the cast top (going SOA). Any suggestions on a rod for that? I can't peheat as it won't fit in the oven and I don't have a torch here. I have been told that it's cool if you only weld a bit at a time and use a ping hammer on the bead as soon as you weld it? Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated. I like to think I am good with a mig but this is the first I have ever used a arc. Seems pretty easy but I am a little worried. I know what to look for penetration wise and how the bead should look, but this being new to me I am a little hesitant.

GreenMachine
 
G
#4 ·
Well, if you can't pre-heat the area to be welded, I'd look for a ENiFe-CI rod, where

E - electrode
Ni - nickel
Fe - iron
CI - for use on cast iron

With these rods, you don't have to pre-heat the area, although it is recommended that the area be pre-heated to 100 F for a better bead (just weld on a hot day/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif).

Almost all nickel-based rods are used to weld cast iron stuff. The rod I mentioned above should be good for what you are doing and be just as strong if not stronger then the base metal.

It is true that if you peen the weld immediately after the weld is completed, the stress that is introduced into the base metal is reduced, so it would be a good idea to do so (just don't REALLY hit the new weld or you might tear it apart before it gets a chance to cool). Also, it is a very good idea to weld in short lengths, alternating sides if possible, to reduce heat input into the base metal to minimize distortion. If you can, use a propane torch to post-heat the weld to allow it to slowly cool.

I would also practice for a bit with stick welding (SMAW) if you are new to it, as there are a few tricks that will help you to get a better weld.

Hope some of this helps.

A good listener is not only popular everywhere, but after a while he gets to know something.
-Wilson Mizner
 
G
#5 ·
Sorry, I wasn't thinking when I said DCEN with E6011. It's possible, but not recommended. You can however use it with AC, which will have penetration and a burn-off rate somewhere in between DCEP and DCEN.

BTW, why are you using the E6011? Unless the joint is rusty/dirty/painted, I'd be using E6013, as it is a much nicer electrode to work with and the slag easier to remove. You just have to make sure that the joint is somewhat clean.

A good listener is not only popular everywhere, but after a while he gets to know something.
-Wilson Mizner
 
#6 ·
I looked at the charts they had at the welding place and it recommended 6013 for absolutely clean sheet metal. I saw sheet metal and thought it might not be good for thick stuff. It was Hobart charts and rods. I welded the hangers on and it worked great. Luckily I could rotate the frame so I was above them the whole time. Gravity tends to help make the puddle go where you want it to. The slag is kind of thick but it seems to come off easy with a wire brush.

GreenMachine
 
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