I saw that deal on Ebay and was pissed because I knew it was going to be a steal for somebody and I had just purchased a new engine. It's nice to know that it went to somebody on the board. I still got a pretty good deal on mine. It was a 2000 4.0 from a ZJ with only 4,000 miles on it! With all the accessories and electrical I paid $1400. It's still gleaming it's so new. I was in doubt about the 4,000 miles until I discovered the factory MOPAR oil filter still in place on it as well as the same Champion spark plugs that the factory puts in it (looking so new that I'm convinced that I could have re-used them had I chosen).
It's going into my YJ right now and I think I've got 95% of the problems worked out (with great info from dorfs). I'm expecting the wiring harness and computer tomorrow, and barring any unforseen problems, I think I'll have it running this week. A couple of things I've discovered that may or may not be applicable for your CJ/TJ hybrid and Bob Ackley's project:
1. I came up with a couple of solutions to the fuel delivery system. One way is to set it up inline (MPFI upgrade style) and use a standard EFI fuel pump connected to a 99-01 ZJ filter/regulator (about $45 at the dealer). Late model ZJs use an inline regulator external to the gas tank. It regulates to a perfect 50lbs (I measured it) and has provisions for a return line. You could mount it in your engine compartment or back near the tank like the ZJ does.
Second option, and the one I eventually went with, is to buy a late model TJ tank with integral pump/regulator/sender unit (I picked up a compete one at a junk yard for $150). The TJ skidplate wouldn't mount onto my YJ frame, so I swapped it onto my old YJ skidplate and it mounted right up. I did have to re-route my exhaust slightly so that it wouldn't sit against the tank. There were a ton of advantages doing it this way.
2. The new 4.0 engine, I discovered after it was literally hanging in the engine compartment by the cherry picker, won't mount to the old style engine brackets. Maybe others knew that, but I'd never read it and didn't check it before-hand like I should have. But it mounts up perfect with new TJ brackets. The differences are slight, but significant, and all relate to bolt patterns on the engine side. I had no other mating problems to my AX-15 (which also conveniently had the CPS slot)
3. The exhaust manifold on the new ZJ is a bit different and mine may have had California emissions (two pre oxygen sensors). I ended up having to scrounge for a part of the head pipe to mate it properly to my exhaust system. No big deal, but a different exhaust manifold/header is another option if anyone else runs into this.
4. I'm still waiting for the new harness and computer to arrive (came from a different yard and was delayed), so I can't address all of the ideosynchrasies of the electrical, but it SHOULD work. I'm trying to adapt it to my YJ gauges and that may prove impossible though. Upgrading to the TJ gauges with the CCD input may be the only option (it's certainly the only way to get a functional "check engine" light). More to follow as I work on that problem.
5. Make sure you get a throttle cable from a 91-96 YJ. I picked up one from a '99 and it has about one inch too much travel at the accelerator linkage. I just modified it to fit, but an ealier model should hook right up.
6. My ZJ engine has the AC compressor on the left side of the engine. I don't know if all of the new 4.0 engines are like that or if that's exclusive to the ZJ. I'll have to re-plumb some AC lines to make it work.
7. The old high pressure power steering line mates awkwardly at the pump (but will work). I bought a new one.
The DIS system looks interesting and certainly makes for a clean engine compartment. I can't wait to get it running. As time goes by, more and more people are going to buying these new style 4.0 engines for swap and there's practically no info out there from people who have done it. In order to help people along, anyone who makes this swap should make a point of posting their lessons learned until we get a decent knowledge base built up on it. Although mine's not running YET, I'm convinced that it's a good swap and, with the exception of the gauges, not substantially more complicated than the older style.
By the way, for people who don't like the new distributorless ignition system, it looks to me like you could take the camshaft position sensor out, drop a standard distributor in, plug up a coil and wires and then use the 94-95 wiring harness and computer. However, be advised that you'd have to purchase all new engine sensors or splice from a new style harness since the electrical connections are different. Not sure about the problems associated with 8 volt vs 5 volt sensor system either - but it's all doable.
Chris