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44-Steering linkage

1K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Old_Fart 
G
#1 ·
Interested in seeing how anyone has configured their steering linkage for a Dana 44(mine is narrowed), using 44 knuckles for a spring under conversion.
pictures would be appreciated

JF1
 
G
#3 ·
If the axle is going under a CJ, then you could just reuse your old knuckles and brakes. what you might consider is having someone ream the knuckle holes from the top. what i did was use cut down J20 linkage. if you have access to a lathe, then you could recut the threads yourself.
with the steering on top of the knuckles, your turning radius will also be increased. With the likage underneath, the diff cover will hit pretty quickly.
Brandon

 
G
#4 ·
If the axle is going under a CJ, then you could just reuse your old knuckles and brakes. what you might consider is having someone ream the knuckle holes from the top. what i did was use cut down J20 linkage. if you have access to a lathe, then you could recut the threads yourself.
with the steering on top of the knuckles, your turning radius will also be increased. With the likage underneath, the diff cover will hit pretty quickly.
Brandon

 
#5 ·
I put my D44 in a YJ SOA. I ended up getting flat-top knuckles and high-steer steering arms. I'm using my old linkage. Just had to have it shortened a bit since the steering arms are tucked inward a bit. Sorry, no pics.

 
#7 ·
just currious, who made your steering arms? you say they are "tucked inward a bit" so how much did your linkage need to be shortened?

have you noticed any loss of steering radius? sorry about all the questions, i was thinking (and still am) about making some different arms for myself. and i know that "tucking them inward" will affect your "Ackerman Angle" just curious.....

3/4tonYJ

http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton
"Sept 11th 2001" will not be forgotten
 
#8 ·
hey gregg.. mine are from parts mike.. and yes they are "tucked in".. the actual holes are about 1/2" in towards the center of the axle.. and also about 1/2" to the rear.. so they are shorter than the stock knuckles.. this is why i had to cut down my waggy stock steering that came with the axle.. was just enough so i couldnt turn them all the way in.. does this effect anything.. yes.. mostly the drag link now hits the pitman arm.. since i am also using a waggy pitman arm.. i have found an arm off a 3/4 ton dodge.. that will work.. but i have to ream out the hole slightly.. it is shorter.. and has a slight drop in it.. for now i have heated up and straightened out the stock waggy arm.. to cure the problem..
other than that.. mine drives sweet.. i can turn the wheels till they hit the springs.. and since my draglink is damn near parrellel.. no bumpsteer..
i have some pics on the webpage.. and plan on taking some better ones here shortly..

http://www.jeepgod.net

survival is instinct, but living takes guts
 
#9 ·
thanks for the answer, i've been wanting to check out a rig with arms like yours for awhile /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif (just curious).

your site won't come up, say's you've had to many **** surfing on it.....and something about "20 Meg limit exceeded"

i was thinking really hard about making acouple similar (for the hummer wheels i got from chris) and decided against it, (seeing how i'm SUA, and didn't really want to cut up my flat top knuckles)

i'd like to ask some questions /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif when you say your tires hit the leaf springs, do both hit at the same time? if one hits 1st, does it hit in front of the axle? most hit behind, if they are running standard caster. when at full turn, does your drag link stay parrallel to the axle tube?

fyi, i can remember 5 different pitman arms i've had on my YJ. longer/shorter, more/less drop, changed the taper bla bla bla,,,,,,,,i think i could fix most my problems if i just moved the box forward (but i don't want to)

put any thought into a "ram assist setup"?

damn, think i should slow up on the coffee after work alittle bit.........

3/4tonYJ

http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton
"Sept 11th 2001" will not be forgotten
 
#10 ·
Like Pat, I've got the steering arms from Parts Mike. Unfortunetly I haven't gotten to drive my Jeep yet as I've been a little short on cash to finish my tierod/draglink. But like Pat's, my draglink will be just about parallel with my tierod. Should be sweet. I had to cut about 3-4" off my stock g-waggie tierod.

 
#13 ·
here is the pitman arm.... its a stock wagoneer arm.. that i heated and made completely straight.. stock ones have a slight downward bend to them... it works for now.. but like i said.. i will be changing to the dodge arm since it is an inch shorter.. my problem is the rear portion of the pitman arm rubs against the tie rod..


these two pictures are looking down onto the top of the hi steer arm from parts mike.. you can see in the second one that its shorter than the stock knuckle arm.. it is also about 1/2" more towards the center of vehicle.. you have to move it in slightly to clear the tire.. since you are higher up the tire bulges in more in the hi position.. it doesnt seem to effect anything..




http://www.jeepgod.net

survival is instinct, but living takes guts
 
#15 ·
i had to remove the sway bar to be able to use a straight pitman arm.
also cut the trackbar bracket off the frame...

and my pitman arm is straight above the lower draglink, it could contact with about 5" of compression straight down, (i'm going to fab a bump stop on that side above the axle if i ever have any problems)

3/4tonYJ

http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton
"Sept 11th 2001" will not be forgotten
 
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