I am getting the rearend of my jeep put back together, and am to the point of putting in the new main eye bushings. The problem is, they do not want to go in at all!! I have one about 3/4 of the way in, and can't get it to move any farther. I took a grinding stone and ground all the nicks and burs off, and got all of the rust off of the inside of the eye. I also removed the outer metal pieces of the old bushings, so those are not holding me up. Are these supposed to be press in?..thanks again for any advice!!....Ben
I've only put rubber ones in and never had a problem. If you are trying to install poly bushings, I've heard of people sanding some of the bushing to get them to go in all the way.
I am sorry I didn't make it clear...the bushings have a metal sleeve on the outside, with rubber on the inside and then a metal sleeve for the bolt to go through....they are the main eye bushings for the rear spring....thanks again, Ben
Every poly bushing I've ever used for the main eye on a CJ doesn't use the outer metal sleeve, they are only used with the rubber bushings. Don't use the metal sleeve on the outside.
John, where did you get the idea that molybdenum grease hurts poly bushings. Polyurethane is an extremely chemical resistant elastomer, the stuff is impervious to just about anything. Most petroleum based greases, especially those with chemical additives will turn rubber bushings to mush, not polyurethane. I've used every type of grease imaginable on my poly bushings over the past 15 years, never had one deteriorate yet. The worst thing I can say about poly is it is hard, therefore can make the ride harsher and transmit vibration, and it has a tendency to fade when in colors such as red or yellow.
sorry for the lack of knowledge here, but how do I get the sleeves off of the bushings? they seem to be glued or pressed in, and are very tight..thanks once again, Ben
Hey, Ben, sounds like you are installing stock replacement bushings. I have only done it once but I used a press. An alternative would be a vise or a c-clamp. A little lubricant that is rubber friendly will also help.
The reason I don't like grey/black molly on red polly is it tends to stain.
That's why I used the word/s 'Poo poo'.
This trait became especially evident on a set of red polly tie rod dust caps.
It wasn't long after their first molly greasing that they appeared to actually be soaking the lube up ... but it is probably just the graphite? smearing into every scratch and pour of the polly. I'll get black or stay with rubber next time around...
Yes, you can use any kind of grease on poly. Energy Suspension themselves told me that. If you have a metal sleeve around the outside of the bushings, they are probably the stock rubber kind. Don't remove the sleeve. You either have to get them in somehow with the sleeves on, or return them and get the sleeveless polyurethane bushings. They go in real easy and will last longer.
If you havent gotten them in/out yet. I used a small piece of ready rod 3/8" about 12" long. Used washers,sockets and pressed the buggers in and out. This works both for removal and install of your bushings. My poly bushings came with an example.
Sure guy ..."Yes, you can use any kind of grease on poly. Energy Suspension themselves told me that."
That's why the polly guys issue those tiny packets of pure silicon grease...
It is colorless and thicker than about anything.
If you've ever heard polly, and especially new polly, squeek you will start getting the idea ...
BTW: The reason the manufacturers give you only a little smidgeon of this super rubber silicion is because it is expensive.
I ordered a little 1/2 oz jar of watch repairers 'O' ring pure silicon grease to lube non greasable polly bushings. Good stuff... and the same thing that came with your pollys ...
Anyone who has disassembled a dried out polly bushing will learn the importance of proper ... and frequent ... lubrication.
But you guys just grease em up with anything you want ... I'll post on this subject no more.
So Jaffer "guy", are you calling me a liar or what? Energy Suspension sent us some real screwed-up mismatched control arm bushings for our VW, along with incorrect instructions. When I called them to get the mess straightened out, among other things, they told me that we could use any grease and it would not hurt the polyurethane bushings. Don't know what else to tell you. And I will put more stock in what they tell me than what you have to say on the matter. They did make the whole mess right by the way and overnite. Other than the initial screw up, great service.
I do believe what John was getting at was the fact that silicon grease stays greasing the bushings longer than plain old chasis grease. An ungreased poly bushing squeaks and groans, to some people that is annoying, but I've been using poly bushings on my Jeep for 15 years, and just ignore the squeaks. Anyway, my broken in Pro-Comp springs moan and pop so much, you can't hear the poly bushings (never let anyone tell you Pro-Comps won't articulate, you just need to break them in, and after that are they ever NOISY!)
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Off Roading Forums
1.4M posts
22.4K members
Since 1999
A forum community dedicated to all off road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!