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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2001, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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YJ D30 knuckle removal

In preparation to installing the MORE cross over steering kit I need to remove the pass. side knuckle to be machined. I've never done this so I wonder if there is anything I need to watch out for. I know how to remove the spindle and axle shafts, I've done that before. The knuckle is held on with two bolts. Are these tapered? Do I need a puller for this?


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2001, 01:19 PM
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Re: YJ D30 knuckle removal

The ball joints have a tapered stud just like the tie rod ends. Remove the upper and lower nuts and pound the knuckle off. The ball joint studs taper will be wedged in good though.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2001, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Re: YJ D30 knuckle removal

Well I got the upper ball joint loose (the stud in the inner knuckle actually loosened too) but I still can't free the lower ball joint. How hard can I pound on the knuckle? I don't want to break it. Can I use heat on the joint? Is there any kind of special ball joint puller I could use for this?


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2001, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: YJ D30 knuckle removal

err.. eh... anybody?


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2001, 02:46 PM
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Re: YJ D30 knuckle removal

Give it a couple hard smacks with a hammer (3-5 pound hammer is best, a little 16oz hammer ain't gonna do squat) on the axle yoke near where the lower ball joint goes through. Sounds funny but it does help sometimes. Hit the lower ear of the yoke on both sides, then try knocking the knuckle off again. These parts are pretty tough, don't be afraid to really smack 'em. You can also try to wedge between the knuckle and the yoke. Sometimes these things are buggers to get off. You just have to work it for a while and it'll come eventually, usually right onto your unsuspecting toes if you haven't left one of the nuts threaded on loosely.

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