Ok, here's the deal. I read the Haynes replacement procedure, and I leaves me with questions.

It tells me to measure the amount of torque required to turn the pinion (about 3 ft/lbs). Then it tells me to remember the amt of torque to loosen the nut. Problem is that I cant loosen the nut (rusty), it's soaking in WD40 now.

So I guess my questions is, how much do I tighten this nut? They make it would like dire consequences if it gets overtighten! True?

Also, what's the best way to hold the yoke when trying to loosen this nut? The axle is a spare and is off of the Jeep.

Thanks!!

I'm not sure ...but doesn't your D30 have a "crush sleeve"? If so I just witnessed one being redone. It was on a TJ and the wrench (who I'm getting to be good friends with[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]) tightened it until he got 25 inch pounds of torque to turn the pinion. This was no easy task. It required a socket with a "cheater pipe" on the pinion nut and a pipe wrench (big i.e. long so it can reach the floor and you can stand on it) on the yoke and someone to hold the axle on the jack stands (in this case two people me and my friend). Once the sleeve began to crush it became easier to tighten the nut ...but it was still somewhat difficult. Not that it was that hard to turn ...just to apply enough torque without overshooting the proper resistance.

Overshooting changes the pinion depth which is quite critical. I can't imagine that the crush sleeves are that expensive though ...so if first you don't suceed .....

GeeAea

Now that I've quit smoking my doctor informs me that I'll die in much better health!!!

GeeAea you must have seen them setting up a rear from scracth.

On the rocks there are a couple of ways of doing this. First like the book said check your in/lbs on the pinion. Make sure you use a dial torque wrench and not a click. Once you get this reading take the nut off and change the seal then tighten back down to the same reading with out going over. The other way of doing it is count how many threads you have showing then mark the nut and yoke on the pumpkin. Once the new seal is in just tighten down the nut to the same place it was. Good luck.

Can someone please bring me a hammer my 33's just ate my fender again. Damn i need more lift.

You ARE talking about a FRONT Dana 30 right. The procedure you and others are talking about is for a rear model 20, the 30 doesn't have a crush sleeve, there are shims in there setting the depth, just take the nut and yoke off, remove the seal, and retorque the nut to 210 ft. lbs.

Brad
ORC Land Use Editor
Land Use
VP RockGarden 4 Wheelers, Aztec, NM
RockGarden 4 Wheelers

Do like creeper says but just to clarify. The shims in the D30 set the pinion preload which means that no matter how tight you get the pinion nut (beyond a certain point) the preload won't change.


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar

Just to echo the above. The CJ and YJ dana 30 do not use a crush sleeve, just the TJ dana 30.

Yeah, and according to ontherocks profile he owns a YJ.

Brad
ORC Land Use Editor
Land Use
VP RockGarden 4 Wheelers, Aztec, NM
RockGarden 4 Wheelers