My passenger side door inside handle doesn't open the hard doors anymore. The outside one still works fine but the inside one seems totally disconnected. Lucky for me my GF doesn't mind rolling down the window... but the rainy seasons coming.

Is this something I can fix? I have not tried taking the door apart yet. Don't know if it would be less of a headache to let a Dealership take care of it because it might be a pain.

-Hays

Moss Green '94 YJ
4.0L 5sp.-manual.
2.5 Old Man Emu
32x11.50 BFGMud

Complete your profile... it's nice to know who I'm writn' to.

The bad news: The latch is an assembly with very few replacable parts.

The good news: The latch does not often wear out.

Remove the door trim panel, window crank and door pull to gain access to the inside of the door. This exposes the door latch assembly.

Spray the latch assembly with Carb cleaner while working the latch. Often the problem is dried grease/dirt that cloggs up the assembly. Then when finished, spray the latch with a good light machine oil to coat all the moving parts. On the accessable slides put some white lithium molly grease.

Try it and I think you'll find the latch will work much better.

While you're in there make sure all the locking rods are straight and true, bent ones will cause you lots of grief. This also may be the problem.

If you don't fix it now you'll be seeing a crack start to appear on the upper frame area by the wing window. That's where all the force seems to center on the door as it's slammed. The oftener, and harder you slam the door to get it to shut, or force it to open, the faster and bigger the crack will appear. The doors should open and shut witout a problem

These URLs describe my version of hard door sill and crack repiar on the cheap take a look if you've not see it before:

http://www.vanevery.homestead.com/Sillrepair.html

The sill repair page will take you the Crack Repair page:

http://www.vanevery.homestead.com/Sillpict.html

Hard door adjustment is pretty simple provided:

1. Tub is “square” not twisted out of alignment.
2. Windshield is square with the tub.
3. Hard door locks are adjusted, lubed and working correctly (translation: you don’t have to slam the doors to get them to shut tightly.)

Here’s how I adjust my hard doors:

1. Make sure Hardtop lip is level all the way around the body.
2. Make sure the Windshield angle is the same on the right and left sides.
3. Loosen ALL hinge bolts, on the body and the doors.
4. Finger tightens all bolts.
5. Cut strips to cardboard 1” wide, and combine them so it makes a strip about ¼” high.
6. Tape the strip to the bottom of the door tub lip, extending on up to the latch area.
7. Slowly close the door adjusting the door so that it just clears the cardboard.
8. Examine the front hard door skin edge in relation to the body. The skin should not be touching the tub, but have about 1/16” to 1/8” gap between the two.
9. The Hard door should hang vertically, and the rear door skin edge should be evenly gaped with the body.
10. By using these rules of thumb you should be able to get a good closure of the doors.
11. Don’t forget to makes sure they fit tight against the tub with the hardtop removed.
12. Once fitted, now adjust the windshield as necessary or use sticky backed foam seal to make up the gap between the leading edge of the upper hard door and the windshield frame.
13. Fit the hardtop and make sure it’s now square with the hard doors.

Email me direct if you have further questions

Thanks. I will give it a try tomorrow.

-Hays

Moss Green '94 YJ
4.0L 5sp.-manual.
2.5 Old Man Emu
32x11.50 BFGMud

i didn't think jeeps had doors. hehe!

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
vortec350/4L80E/d300/d60fr/14br/detroits/4.56/38's