Is the reason for tcase lowering because you need to lessen the extreme angle put on the driveshaft due to a suspension lift? Since the tcase and tranny are connected together, wouldn't you need to lower both of them? Maybe I'm all wrong, but I was just curious about the point of this.
Jocker i'm gonna take a stab at this one. When you lower the tcase it does lower the tranny two, but not as much. when you lower the tcase you change the angle of the engine and tranny because the pivit on the engine mounts. Well i hope this made sence and maybe answered your question.
If you can't break it, Try Harder[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
79 CJ-7/304/T-150 I think/Dana20/No tires(yet)/rust[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img] [email protected]
What do you mean when you say ...
>"then crunch on the ROCKS more! leave them up and do it right- SYE/CV! "<
I had to lower my transfercase on my CJ-5, and I hated doing it. Is there an alternative I could have done? I have a 2.5" lift, 258, t-98a trans, dana 300 my rear dive shaft is about 12" long
Yeah, I was kinda confused by that also. I thought that it was something you HAD to do when putting on a suspension lift. When you lower the tcase, does the lowering just come as a result of sticking spacers ("pucks") between the frame and skid plate? Also, would the rear (and possibly front) driveshaft need to be lengthened because of a dropped tcase?
'5s are a tight squeeze for drivetrains, you can use a CV shaft to 31 degrees max at that point the ball pops out, you can move the rear axle back a few inchs(move mine 5"), move the engine forward a few inchs by removing the mech fan and adding a pusher fan in front of the radiator, at the same time rise the motor mounts a couple inchs to angle the tcase down slightly. If you can find a short shaft D300 (1980) you'll save 1.5".
I've done all this, I have about 7" of lift on my '5 with a 93" wheelbase and I'm still at the driveshafts limit.
WC is the CJ5 MASTER here and i can elaborate on the JOKER's YJ a little. when you do a susp lift, everything (frame and body) is raised except the axles. the driveshafts just change in angle- steeper, and the distance from axle to transcase now is longer. depending on how much lift is done as to how you resolve the driveshaft issue. if you go a 2-1/2" lift then you could probably just lower the transcase 1" pucks and bring the shaft angle back to livable and have no vibrations. but say a 4-1/2" lift and you will not even be able to use the stock rear shaft without dropping transcase and will probably still have vibes- angle too steep for u-joints both ends.
the BEST solution for a susp lift is to keep the transcase up against frame where it belongs and do the SLIP YOKE ELIMINATION and CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT system. this will handle the new angle and have no vibes and busted u-joints on the trail and you will clear all those rocks you wanted to!
the front driveshaft is long enough that the angle change even on a 4-1/2" lift will not be any problem. also you don't go fast enough in 4wd to get any vibes.