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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-04-2001, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

Okay, I'm SOOOOOO close to getting my SOA done. Now it's really a matter of sticking the suckers in. That's my problem though. The guy that was/is going to help me is a HUGE flake, so I'm debating if me and a buddy could pull this our self?

The reason I wanted to use my other, flakey buddy is cause he's done stuff like this before. My other friend hasn't, but does know alot about cars. He's got a welder so we could tack weld them and then have another friend finish the welds. What else would we have problems doing? Think we could manage getting the old ones out, then putting the new ones in, centered in the frame and the rear pinion and front caster angles fine? I'm willing to try it if you guys think it CAN be done.

Also, I have a few things left to do. Mainly brake line crap. Can I run Chevy SS braided lines up front since my calipers are Chevy? Wouldn't they be longer? Also, would it be possible to run SS braided lines for the rear drums? Or is that a bad idea? I think it'd be good. Then I wouldn't have problems with the hard line on the axle.

Thansk!!!



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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-04-2001, 11:37 PM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

I say go for it, but make sure you weld those perches on good. Don't be like me and have them break off haha

Keith

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

Well what do I need to be careful of if I'm doing this myself? We're just gonna tack the perches, then take them to a friend and have him zap them. Anything else I should be worried about? How should I start prepping for this? I'd still love to have my other Q's answered too



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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 05:29 AM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

yes this can be done.. have done several.. first thing.. you will need some kind of angle finder... so you can align the rear and front pinions up.. a good tape measure.. and before any welding.. make sure you get a good clean surface.. meaning.. metal to metal.. take all the crud and paint off.. yes. i have heard about using chevy lines.. not sure how much longer they are... you can also get some stock long lines from napa 38 bucks... and they are 36" long.. the part number is on my webpage.. under the mods section somewhere.. or id post here.. and whats wrong with running the hard line in back? you can bend it by hand.. and its waaaaay cheaper.. just be careful with it.. so you dont kink it.. and have at it..

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 05:34 AM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

go for it. it is a realatively simple project. just watch you pinion angle alon wiotht the castor angle and you'll be alright. you will need to address shocks in the future to handle all your added flex and also a track bar to take care of axle wrap. YOU WILL NEED ONE!!!!!! check and double check to make sure they are centered under the jeep. it is easy to mess up if you are not careful. they make rear stainless steel brake lines. are you using drums or disc's? the only other thing i can think of is drive shafts. some people need to have them lengthend and some don't. you'll just have to see.good luck.

brian wilson
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stretched to 100" wb
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 08:09 AM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

Well, if you have a CV rear it's not that hard:

Line up the drive shaft so that there is no angle (or as close to it as you can get) on the rear u joint - ie: the rear yoke should be pointed directly at the tranfer case output.

If you don't have a CV then you need an angle finder.

The front I just made parellell with the existing SUA mounts. That way the castor blah blah blah was the same as before.

It wasn't that hard.

All the rest of the stuff you can sort out later.

If I remember correctly you already got all the steering stuff sorted out, right?

Chad Lloyd 95 YJ 4.0 NP435 203 EBD20 woodies D44s 4.88 detroits SOA cross over 35 X 15.5 SXs 8274
post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 08:35 AM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

One word of advice about setting the rear pinion angle. Err on the plus side. The springs will sag and twist under torque that will lower your pinion angle (relative to the driveshaft) so if you set it to 0 now it will have -1 or -2 angle in a few trips. Also once you set the angle make sure you load the back up with tools to see how much it sattles. I made the mistake of not doing this and now I'm in the rough. I'll probably have to torch the perches off and reweld them again.


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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-05-2001, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

What else is there I should know of? Any tips for pulling the old stuff out? I'm gonna be using my old springs at first, then upgrade to rear CJ-7 7-leaf springs form JCW. They have about 1-1.5" of lift. Any adjustments I should do now?

Once everything is out, what shoudl I start with? Front or rear? On the front I'm just gonna get the SUA perches level, then stick the SOA perches on and get them level, but .5" inward. That's the correct amount, right?

For the rear I'm gonna put it under the Jeep and try and get it as centered as possible. How is the best way to do this since I've grinded off my old perches already? Then just point it at the T/C yoke and then down 2 degrees? Is this correct? Should I load the Jeep up alot first like kutyfal suggested? What else do I need to take care of? Any major things I'll f-up? Just triple check everything, right?

What should I do for u-bolt plates? I want to keep my stock swaybar up front. Thanks!



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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2001, 12:58 AM
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

Hey Jam,

A couple of notes that may help you:

I started with the front, but it really doesn't matter.

Getting the fronts level was easy. I put a piece of 1x1 sqare tubing on the sua perch and one on the soa perch (not welded yet). I put a big C clamp on the pieces to hold them in place. I then took measurements out about 1 foot out on the square tubing and made sure they were the exact same (ensuring the same caster as the stock 44). I then tacked them while clamped. Removed clamp and welded like crazy.

On the perch width measure the stock spring mounts on your YJ at both ends and make sure your perches will be that far apart and centered. Measure several times, weld once. This is where I take a break and come back for one last measurement and general 'look it over'. I'm always amazed at how much time and frustration that can save on big projects. Sometimes it helps me to put my tools away, sweep up first to get back to the big picture.

I thought the rear was easy. Just put it under there and set the springs on the perches. I purposely pointed the pinion down and just used a floor jack to twist it up to the right angle once I was sure the perches were centered and the right distance apart (same as sping/shackle mounts on frame). I have a bracket already welded to housing for a traction bar (it's much easier to weld before it all in place.

Also, the pinion doesn't point to the tcase unless you have a CV shaft. If not running a CV shaft, the pinion is parallel to the tcase/tranny/engine angle. Degree shims can be used to correct the angle as well. Changing the shackle height will also change the angle so take that into account as well.

-raymo
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2001, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Almost ready - SOA Q\'s?

I talked to Dirt Dog and jeepgod tonight and they said not to keep the G-Waggie's caster the same. They said point the pinion up and leave about 3 degrees of caster. How does everyone feel about this?



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