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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2001, 05:10 PM
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Stuck exhaust manifold stud

I'm swapping a '77 258 into my scrambler, and one of the exhaust studs is broken off flush with the manifold. I drilled through the stud, and tried using easy outs. I ended up breaking a snap on wrench, messing up a snap on tap & die handle, and eventually breaking an easy out inside the stud. So my question is...where do I go from here? I hope I can get a drill bit into the easy out to back it out, but what about the stud?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2001, 10:57 PM
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Re: Stuck exhaust manifold stud

I used the smile icon because I'm glad I'm not the only one who has done this. You can do 2 things. Weld on a bolt with the head cut off. The other is these clamp things that go over the outside. They have them at most parts stores. I would weld the bolt on. Thats what I did with the Chevy engine I put in a Blazer. Its still working fine. You are determined. I would have welded on the bolt stud a long time ago.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2001, 12:41 AM
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Re: Stuck exhaust manifold stud

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Let X equal the number of broken off flush studs that I have removed by welding a NUT onto the stud. Usually by the time I get involved, there is a broken off bit or tap in there as well. I normally use a nut maybe one size bigger than the stud would normally have threaded onto it. I set the nut in the exact center and hold it with the ground clamp of my welder, and then I stick that wire in there and weld the crap out of that stud and nut, until they resemble one HUGE cherry red bolt. THEN I go do something watch a war movie; change oil in my ZJ and grease it; spray WD-40 in the backside of my GM pickup hood; or have a very long lunch. That allows the welded assembly to cool, and SHRINK BACK FARTHER THAN IT WAS. Then I put a box end on it and tap gently first this way and then that way until I can get rotation, and then on out. I have done this on the back of engine blocks STILL IN THE VEHICLE, on manifolds of course; on cast iron tractor radiators; and just about everything else including flat head engines that we raced in the fifties[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]. I have had to weld as many as three nuts on before a stubborn stud came out, but I have NEVER FAILED to get the broken stud outa there. The heat-cool-shrink is the secret.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Stuff when heated in a confined space will compress and then shrink back with a tiny bit of clearance that was not there before.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

A Jeep Skunkworks run by Moonguys[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img], buildin' the ultimate SNOJEEP!
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