Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Southeast Iowa
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Re: Stuck exhaust manifold stud
[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Let X equal the number of broken off flush studs that I have removed by welding a NUT onto the stud. Usually by the time I get involved, there is a broken off bit or tap in there as well. I normally use a nut maybe one size bigger than the stud would normally have threaded onto it. I set the nut in the exact center and hold it with the ground clamp of my welder, and then I stick that wire in there and weld the crap out of that stud and nut, until they resemble one HUGE cherry red bolt. THEN I go do something else.........like watch a war movie; change oil in my ZJ and grease it; spray WD-40 in the backside of my GM pickup hood; or have a very long lunch. That allows the welded assembly to cool, and SHRINK BACK FARTHER THAN IT WAS. Then I put a box end on it and tap gently first this way and then that way until I can get rotation, and then on out. I have done this on the back of engine blocks STILL IN THE VEHICLE, on manifolds of course; on cast iron tractor radiators; and just about everything else including flat head engines that we raced in the fifties[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]. I have had to weld as many as three nuts on before a stubborn stud came out, but I have NEVER FAILED to get the broken stud outa there. The heat-cool-shrink is the secret.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Stuff when heated in a confined space will compress and then shrink back with a tiny bit of clearance that was not there before.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
A Jeep Skunkworks run by Moonguys[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img], buildin' the ultimate SNOJEEP!