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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Here's my first write up of my 5.0 swap so far. I'm not quite done with it or the conversion. Eventually I'll put in on a webpage with pictures. What do you guys think?

5.0 HO into a CJ-7


Background

I’m a 26 year old Naval Aviator that flies SH-60B seahawks. I got orders to Hawaii and came out with my hot-rod 300ZX sportscar. After one trip to the beach and an hour of cleaning sand out of the leather, I figured I was in need of a more practical vehicle. After shopping around I found an ’82 CJ-7 with hardtop for $5000. It has zero rust, but 210,000 miles on it. I can do mechanical work, but not body work so I purchased it.

The inline 6 worked awesome on the trials, but being a daily driver, lacked highway power. It would top out at 50mph up a hill. Walking through a local junkyard for fun (It’s a great pastime), I spotted an ’86 Lincoln MKVII. Inside I found a complete 5.0HO engine. Two weeks, $600, and a few greasy hands later, it was in my driveway.

The Plan

I planned on doing a basic tune-up of the stock engine and running it as is. After a week on the engine stand, I decided to start taking it apart just to clean it up. After a few sleepless nights, I decided to rebuild it so I would only have to do this swap once. I tore it down and took it to the machine shop.

The Engine

1986 is the worst year for a 5.0 HO. It has crummy heads, flat top pistons what won’t work with aftermarket heads, smaller throttle body, and speed density injection. I had it blueprinted, balanced, forged pistons added, ARP rod bolts, ARP main studs, oil pump, and degreed the cam at the machine shop. I went with Edelbrock heads and shorty headers. I kept the stock roller cam and intake to maximize low end torque.

I went with a new Stewart Components water pump, AGR power steering pump, and Powermaster 140 amp alternator. The Lincoln alternator is huge, and cost $400. I went with a $20 mustang bracket and $180 alternator to save some money.

The flexplate was removed and a ford flywheel and centerforce clutch added along with an Advance Adapters pilot bushing, and stock mustang bellhousing to mate with the World Class T-5 tranny.

Engine mounting

I used MORE’s bombproof ford V-8 mounts ($220). They fit perfectly. They accept 6 bolts per mount through the frame rail. I used grade 8, shouldn’t be going anywhere. The mustang bellhousing puts the tranny at a tilt, so a shim is needed under the tranny mount. I’ll have to clearance the floor a little bit for the transfer case shifter.

The clutch fit just right. I have not resolved whether or not I will be able to use the stock cable with my clutch pedal, or have to convert to a hydraulic setup.

Fuel Injection

I called Ford Motorsport to see what I would need to buy to drop this engine in my jeep. He said the whole page! I ordered the main harness, engine harness, sensors, mass air package, injectors, and spark plug wires. The harness is awesome! Fits right in. Every connector is different, so it’s a foolproof install. The oval hole that needs to be cut in the firewall for the computer just happens to be the same size at the pre-cut hole that is plugged just below the battery in the jeep. Fit right in. The computer will be mounted on top of the heater box behind the dash. I’ll lose my glove box interior though. Just a note, if you get a ‘89+ donor engine, you only need the ford main harness ($255 from summit racing). The rest will fit right in.

Fuel delivery

I dropped the tank and used 3/8” fuel injection rated rubber line ($8 a foot) to a Holley inline pump mounted to the floor of the jeep, just above the axle. A K&N billet filter is mounted inside the frame rail. I bent a 3/8” stainless steel hardline up to the engine compartment. This was clamped to the shortened factory steel line just below the alternator. I used the stock 5/16” delivery line as the return line, replacing the rubber sections with fuel injection rated line.

Electrical

There’s only about 10 wires that need to be hooked up, mostly different power wires (Always 12v, ignition only, crank only, etc.)

What’s left to do

I still need to get the powersteering lines to match up. Then I need to get the clutch linkage to work. Then custom exhaust with the O2 sensors welded in. Then a few more wires, radiator, cooling fans, and mount the mass air meter/air filter. Should be running a couple of weeks.

Any questions or comments, email me at [email protected]

-Greg Zimmerman

Pictures will be available after the conversion is complete



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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 09:46 PM
 
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Cool! I'm thinking about doing the same thing on my tpi setup. I had a heck of a time trying to find any write ups on v-8 conversions especially fuel injection. later ken

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 10:25 PM
 
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Hey,
On the power steering pump...I think on Chris Waterman's page he mentions that a hose from a Wrangler has the same fitting as the ford on the pump end and the regular Jeep fitting on the box end. You may want to check that out. Just bring both hoses to the parts store and see if they match. Your other choice would be to have a tubes and hoses shop splice the two together.
If you do check the wrangler hose out let me know if it worked. One of these days I'm going to get my 5.0 into my CJ. Its been sitting in the garage ready to go since June...

'79 CJ-7
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-31-2001, 12:46 AM
 
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

What year was your 300z?
We like them(loved our 280) but the safety ratings is about like a corvette, ie instant disintegration


Im looking for a inexpensive rx-7(87ish) or a supra(88ish) to get drivable and lug everything around.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-31-2001, 03:05 AM
 
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Greg,
I went to an industrial hose sup[lier in Vegas(house of hose), but you should be able to find an Aeroquip dealer in your area. they make an adapter to go from the Ford end to the Saginaw style Jeep fitting but it was on backorder. So I gave him both hoses and had him build ne a high pressure line with Ford fitting at the pump end, and the Jeep fiiting at the Steering unit side. It cost $12, I could have gotten it in stainless for $10 more, but he didnt mention it to me until he finished mine.

Jeff
89 YJ
Adversity is imminent, versatility is mandatory, misery is optional.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-31-2001, 11:35 AM
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Excellent info!
I think we all need to hear stuff like...

"1986 is the worst year for a 5.0 HO"

Those of us that are still looking for a donor are grateful for info like that.
I put a built small block (302) Ford in a Chevy Vega in my younger days and
prided myself in knowing quite a bit about them Ford small blocks. but I've
been out of the loop so long, that I don't even know if it's the same short block
(although I assume it is). I'm sure that progress was made every year, but I
also think that you get one too new and you have to deal with all the computer
sensors that check fuel tank ambient temperature and karma levels that I'd
rather not have to deal with. I would imagine that fuel injected 5.0's are available
in a large variety of Ford vehicles, from F series trucks to Mustangs, to Explorers
to even Lincoln Towncars. Knowing what years to get or avoid makes me more
confident getting into a project that I'm a little intimidated by. Mostly because of
the time it will take me to do the conversion and do it right. It is my daily driver.
I can deal with riding my Mountain Bike to work for a week (30 miles a day), but
I'll be a Grumpy Gus if it goes on for much longer than that.
-Gus-

BTW- Keep us posted on your Web page progress!!

Enjoying life in San Diego, Cal.
post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-31-2001, 12:19 PM
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Well gus,
you better get new tires for the bike, even with all the parts sitting there its going to be longer than a week. I had everything sitting on the floor of my living room/dining room (I'm still a hillbilly in the city) and it took more than a week to do everything, course I wanted everything right the first time and I had absolutly no help doing the actual install, everything was welded/cut/wired/etc. by myself. If I had worked on it steady, I have all the tools needed to do this, it would have taken almost two weeks straight. I only needed to get my PS hose made and driveshafts made, everything else was done in my yard/carport/living room, by the way did you get my e-mail, I offered to answer any questions you might have had but I recieved no response so I fgured you didn't really need to know anything, also I have a good friend who is a toolmaker and he has made any special parts I needed for this conversion. I live in a smog testing state so I had to hook-up all the air pump stuff too, it all works and it passed inspection and as Jeff would say "see how happy I am". Hope this helps out, Later.

Bird

post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-31-2001, 01:37 PM
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Re: 5.0HO swap write-up (first draft)

Thanx Bird;
I got your E-mail and stored it away in a safe spot along with Jeffs and a few other people that
have been so generous with their time, talents, and knowledge. Because I'm still looking for
a donor, the only info I would need is just general info on the 5.0 and prioritize what years,
makes and models to look for. I have to admit, that in my digging around for info, I found
that the Dodge small blocks have the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 4.2L. This alone
is pretty darn tempting as it would simplify my hookup to my existing AA bellhousing and
NV4500 tranny. Just today I'm getting info about the Grand Cherokee, Dakota, Durango
and Rams that use the 5.2L (220 HP and 300 lb-ft) or 5.9L (250 HP and 335 lb-ft) that
sound very tempting to consider as well. The Explorer 5.0 has slightly less impressive
(although impressive non the less) numbers.. 96-97's make 210 HP and 280 lb-ft, and
the 98-2001's make 215 HP and 288 lb-ft. As I mentioned earlier, I've always been partial
to small block Fords, so I'm in a bit of an internal debate.
A couple of years ago, I rode my Mountain Bike to work all summer after I rolled my YJ
4 complete revolutions (barrel roll). So even though I know it won't kill me to do it again,
I'd just like to get my ducks in a row as much as possible to minimize my pain and suffering.
Because I live in Kalifonication, I have all of the smog stuff as well as the Tread Lightly as well
as the political correctness impacts my conversion is "gonna have on society" to worry about.
As far as the engine specs and options goes.... I don't think I'll ever be pushing the new
engine to its limits, I'd just be kicking myself if I didn't pick out the best I could in my
couple of months I'm giving myself to find a donor.
Thanx again to everyone that has been so eager to teach and share with
all of us that so eager and anxious to hear what you have to say and learn
from your experiences.
-Gus-


Enjoying life in San Diego, Cal.
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